rsity
It could be casual and comfortable , formal and classical — but whatever the era or material , a “ mix-and-match ” tablescape requires careful composition .
by BarBara Bohn , managing editor
F & B : TableTop
One of the most visual ways to make a restaurant feel distinctive , curated and special is with the thoughtful selection of china , glass and silver ,” says Danny Bortnick . The vice president of restaurant concept development at San Francisco-based Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants , which pioneered the boutique hotel , focuses on the unique and individual .
Bortnick and his team use a showroom in Kimpton ’ s Washington , D . C ., offices to assemble a tabletop mock-up with swatches and other materials “ to ensure we are in sync with the complete look ,” he says .
Initial impressions are key : “ When a diner first sits down , the pieces on the table should set the mood ,” says Jered Nelson , owner and master poster at Jered ’ s Pottery in Richmond , California . Nelson has worked with San Francisco chefs Michael Mina and Michael Chiarello , and designed cups for the H2 Hotel in Healdsburg , California .
“ When putting together shapes and colors from different lines , the most important thing is to match quality ,” Nelson says . “ A nicely done piece will make poorly done pieces stand out even more . If you want to set the tone of a quality experience , lead with the finest and keep a few pieces on the table at all times .”
“ Lead with the finest ” is a dictum employed by the “ see and be seen ” table at ORU , the restaurant overlooking the lobby of the Fairmont Pacific Rim . The aesthetic incorporates eight Versace china patterns , one for each place setting . “ We used the table settings as the focal point and everything else would be a complement to the table settings ,” says Renata Li , who oversaw the design . “ Having too many items fighting for attention takes away from the simple eclecticism that we were aiming for .”
Consider color , shape and functionality when pulling together a design , Nelson says . “ Era is definitely a secondary consideration . I ’ ve seen beautiful tabletops pulled together from a mix of pieces created hundreds of years apart .”
Determining a clear concept and menu is important . “ Our team huddles in a room with the menu , design materials and other informative elements , which might include food and drink pairings , that are inspirational to the concept ,” Kimpton ' s Bortnick says . They work their way through the menu and ask , “ What would elevate this dining and imbibing experience ?” he says . “ The trend of mixand-match ware in particular is another opportunity to be distinctive and gives guests a sense of the curated nature of the concept .”
It doesn ’ t require throwing out every dish and starting over . “ Dishes that function for multiple purposes are a must ,” Nelson says , and “ adding multi-functional dishes to an existing set of tableware is more appealing to the modern diner as well as the chef . It ’ s also more affordable to add one or two fine quality pieces to a set that mixes well with existing dinnerware instead of replacing the entire set .”
www . hotelsmag . com March 2016 HOTELS 37