HotelsMag March 2015 | Page 41

F & B : TableTop – Fine dining

Beautiful basics

The nautical theme of the décor at Scarpetta at Fontainebleau miami Beach continues on the tables , which feature a chocolate-brown border with gold trim not hidden by a tablecloth as well as simple glassware and white napkins .
Less is often more on today ’ s fine-dining tabletops , where pieces must complement the overall restaurant aesthetic in simple and straightforward ways .
by Ann BAgEL STOrck , mAnAging EdiTOr

When it came to designing Scarpetta , the restaurant at Fontainebleau Miami Beach led by James Beard Award winner Scott Conant , the team at DC Studios USA created an airy , nautical décor emphasizing soft blues and whites . The restaurant ’ s tabletops needed to complement that aesthetic — starting with the tables themselves , which feature gold trim to play up the nautical theme . Glassware is simple , as are the white napkins , so as not to distract from the restaurant ’ s overall design and , of course , the food .

“ Less is more now ,” says Jeffrey Klein , VP of operations , food and beverage , at Fontainebleau Miami Beach . “ You are rarely seeing white linen tablecloths these days . In fact , restaurants are not using table coverings of any kind — it ’ s a much more simplistic and cost-effective approach .”
It ’ s a philosophy that might seem surprising when one considers the realm of fine dining . “ The idea of ‘ fine dining ’ has been completely altered ,” says Sims Foster , owner of The Arnold House near Livingston Manor , New York , and senior vice president of restaurants , bars and nightlife for Commune Hotels and Resorts . “ Tabletops have become much more important in displaying the right message . It ’ s about materials that aren ’ t just white china — cast iron , wood and ceramic are now the mainstays .”
Even fine-dining outlets that have maintained a somewhat traditional approach to the tabletop often have done so in a streamlined way . “ We ’ re observing a comeback to classics , with the use of white linen and simple china ,” says Cedric Campanella , director of Le Jardin at Le Richemond in Geneva .
Perhaps the key word , however , is “ comeback ,” as Foster says the traditional “ white tablecloth ” restaurant might be poised for a renaissance — just in an altered form . “ Some of the refinement will start to be emphasized again ,” he predicts . “ You ’ ll start to hear the story of the craftsperson who handmade the piece your food is sitting in . It will have more thought to its significant part in your whole dining experience .”
www . hotelsmag . com March 2015 HOTELS 37