F & B : TableTop — Coffee and Tea
sip & savor
The Rittenhouse in Philadelphia uses customdesigned white bone china with a platinum band for its tea service in an attempt to strike a balance between sturdiness and elegance .
Courtney Apple
Fine coFFee is extending its reach to all levels oF dining , but tea service remains entrenched as a Formal aFFair .
by Ann BAgEL STORck , mAnAging EdiTOR
c asual dining may rule the day in much of the hotel F & B world , but there is one notable exception : afternoon tea . “ I think tea is the last bastion of fine dining ,” observes Justin Hersker , manager of the Mary Cassatt Tea Room at The Rittenhouse in Philadelphia , who adds when he took over the hotel ’ s tea program about a year ago , his charge was to make it more formal , not less . “ We see a lot of people coming in their Sunday best , and they get their kids dressed up . It ’ s still a fun , formal thing to do .”
Consequently , Hersker and his team chose custom-designed tea service pieces from an England-based supplier that specializes in this area , selecting white bone china with a platinum band . “ It straddles being too delicate versus too clunky ,” Hersker notes . “ It ’ s really simple , but still really elegant and refined .”
The Langham , Boston takes a similar approach with its afternoon tea service , using custom-made china decorated with a traditional rose pattern . “ It looks very elegant , and it reflects the British heritage of afternoon tea ,” says Director of Operations Mathias Weigmann .
“ I have not seen the traditional afternoon or high tea done on a more casual level ,” confirms Jason Lapin , partner at Las Vegas-based consultancy Blau and Associates . “ The espresso business has gone completely towards that . You expect to get a latte even in a fast-casual restaurant .”
“ There is an increasing desire for time well spent , and the occasion of taking afternoon tea is known to be relaxing and less rushed ,” offers Henry Brosi , executive chef at The Dorchester in London .
By extension , there is little rush to overhaul tea service pieces , at least at their core . “ Tea is classic , and a lot of the service ware is classically designed ,” Hersker says . “ It really hasn ’ t changed that much , and I think that ’ s a good thing . You can always update what ’ s going on the plate or what ’ s going in the teapot , but I think there should always be that balance of keeping the past alive .”
34 HOTELS March 2014 www . hotelsmag . com