Celebrity chef Geoffrey Zakarian is the face of The National at The Benjamin in New York City .
CHEFS in the SPOTLIGHT
Over the past several years Denihan Hospitality Group , New York City , has become a company driven by prominent restaurants with high-profile chefs such as Geoffrey Zakarian at The National at The Benjamin in New York City , David Burke at David Burke Primehouse at The James Chicago and Art Smith at Art and Soul at The Liaison Capitol Hill , An Affinia Hotel , in Washington , D . C .
The strategy has been successful — Sims Foster , vice president of restaurants and bars for Denihan , reports over the last three years , F & B revenue across the company ’ s portfolio has more than tripled . However , working with outside parties on hotel
top of cutting-edge trends is critical . It ’ s a demand that was a top priority for Sven Ullrich when he took over as executive chef at Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort and Spa in Honolulu , Hawaii , last August . A US $ 13 million renovation of the property included a complete overhaul of its dining outlets , with particular emphasis placed on sourcing local , sustainable products . restaurants — particularly chefs with strong personalities — is not without challenges .
“ The key from the very start is to structure the deal in the right way ,” Foster explains . “ Once you start with the right foundation , you ’ re 80 % of the way there .”
Foster adds that Denihan is careful to let all parties play to their strengths , not expecting a chef to own and run a restaurant , for example , if he or she is better suited to focusing on creative aspects of the business .
Foster also emphasizes that a hotel ’ s executive chef plays a key role in making these types of partnerships work . “ They really have to have this dual personality — highly creative but willing to be patient and execute a menu that might not be completely theirs , and also able to answer to a P & L and run a business the right way . That is a lynchpin position for our success for any of our operations .”
That presents a huge challenge , Ullrich explains , because although local products often promise fantastic quality , supply is limited — especially for a resort with more than 1,200 guestrooms . To adapt , Ullrich has needed to be flexible with his menus , offering a salad mix in his restaurants , for example , that changes every week based on what local farmers are growing . “ I find so many chefs struggle with this ,” Ullrich says . “ In the old days , I went through a list and ordered . Now , I have to listen to the local people , what they have .”
Esperalba also focuses on adapting the latest culinary trends to his dishes at Dusit Thani Maldives , where there is an emphasis on healthy fare . “ Guests nowadays are more health-conscious ,” he says . “ We have recently added ayurvedic tonics at our breakfast buffet and are constantly looking at healthy dishes we can work into our menus — even to the extent of providing guests with ‘ detoxifying menus ’ should they request it .”
Muraco aims to support local growers and artisans throughout New York on his menus at Andaz 5th Avenue , but adds he is careful to keep his menus straightforward and uncomplicated , rather than too trendy . “ There is something to be said for a perfectly cooked piece of chicken with some really fresh greens and a simple vinaigrette ,” he says .
Luis Pous agrees . As corporate chef for Noble House Hotels & Resorts , Kirkland , Washington , Pous currently oversees F & B operations at 16 hotels . When hiring executive chefs , he says he can ’ t forget the nuts and bolts of the job . “ A lot of the chefs I interview , you ask them a basic question or to do a basic recipe , and they can ’ t ,” Pous says . “ Chefs have to have that ability to be creative , but at the end of the day , you have to feed
50 HOTELS June 2012 www . hotelsmag . com