what I did for a recent getaway , where my final destination was Maya ’ s Heritage Inn , a boutique retreat in the village of Tsarang , founded and owned by Tsewang Bista . But , like the saying goes , getting there is half the fun .
I took a flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara , followed by a hop onto a tiny , 15-seater plane to Mustang ’ s high-altitude desert . I trekked for four days and three nights , staying in charming villages along the way , where at every stop I encountered Mustang ’ s rugged hospitality . The real reward came after the final stretch to Tsarang . Though roads now connect the region , making it accessible by car , the real way to experience it is by hoofing it on foot , which allows one to engage with the region ’ s topography , breathe in the landscape and even get dirtied up from the dust on the trails .
Tsarang sits in a highaltitude desert created by the rain shadow of the Annapurna Range and receives little rain . When I finally arrived at Maya ’ s Heritage Inn , I was greeted by a striking structure that seemed to grow out of the landscape itself . The Inn is surrounded by some of Mustang ’ s most significant relics : the ruins of a 14th-century palace , ancient stone paths and monasteries that house centuries-old murals and scriptures . I could almost feel the weight of history . The top floor of the hotel is its crown jewel . It has two rooms that share a balcony overlooking the ruins . Naturally , these accommodations command the highest rate , but every dollar is worth it to wake up to the sight of the ancient palace bathed in the morning light .
Not only are the sites out of sight , so , too , is the food . Breakfast features the famous buckwheat pancakes made from black and white buckwheat that is grown in the rocky soil . The pancakes are served with freshly churned butter and apple preserves from nearby orchards , which the family also uses to make cider . Dinners consist of warm stews , oftentimes spiced with the Szechuan peppers that grow in Nepal .
One of my favorite moments was sitting on the shared balcony , sipping tea infused with tart Buckthorn berries as the sun set behind the ruins . At the end of each day , I found myself drawn back to the Inn ’ s terrace . Tshering , Tsewang ’ s son , joined me one evening and shared stories about his family ’ s connection to the region and his dream of creating a space that honors Mustang ’ s heritage while welcoming the world .
Boutique and luxury hotels aim to deliver memorable stays . Sometimes it ’ s not the lavish design or extravagant menu — or reaching the destination by modern mode of transport . Oftentimes , it ’ s the authentic , deeply personal moments that feel the most luxurious . Maya ’ s Heritage Inn is not luxury in the conventional sense ; it ’ s something far rarer : a chance to connect with history , culture and the land in a way that leaves you changed . And it was worth every dusty mile . Follow Ali at linkedin . com / in / ajahangiri
A Nepalese chorten .
Inside Maya ’ s Heritage Inn .
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