Hello Monaco #13 Winter 2021–2022 | Page 129

MONACO NEIGHBOURHOOD
for forgetting about ancient architecture and medieval villages . Take a car ride less than 5 minutes slow drive from the beach or the centre of town to the Bordighera of old — a rabbit warren of alleys and medieval arches and cupolas . Park your car in front of the imposing fortress-style arched entrance to this maze and wait for a treat . There are still residents there but the majority of the space is given over to piazzas and restaurants .
Try also Antica Trattoria Garribaldi or fresh sushi at Novantiqua . And if you are on Corso Italia in the centre try the lively Chez Louis and not far away in the centre is the delightful Café Monet .
For contrast go to the beach for delicious seafood at Amarea or Paloma 11 with its beautiful wine cellar .
BORDIGHERA ’ S GREAT LUMINARIES

It ’ s not just a remarkable coincidence that brought three great luminaries and visionaries to Bordighera .

It was destiny that drew Charles Garnier , creator and architect of the Monte-Carlo and Paris Operas to the region . Paris , including the building site of the Opera , had been blocked due to the war with Prussia so he sought refuge at the hometown of his wife ’ s family ( Louise Bary ) in Menton in the south of France , a hop , skip and a jump from Monaco . From there it didn ’ t take him long to find a taste of Italian paradise in Bordighera which then became his home for many years .
For Monet it was the incredible light combined with the unique landscapes , be it incomparable Mediterranean plants and trees or seascapes or the architecture of the epoch and its historical legacy .
And Bordighera was a natural magnet for botanists with its micro-climate , both Mediterranean and temperate — an allure that Ludwig Winter couldn ’ t resist .
Charles Garnier
Having added the treasured Opera and Salle Garnier as Belle Epoque marvels twinning with the Casino in Monte-Carlo , Garnier was the ideal master to transform Bordighera . Difficult to believe that he could have the energy in one lifetime to add jewels to Monte-Carlo , Paris and Bordighera where his legacy extended to public , religious and residential buildings , including :
• Villa Garnier his home built in 1872 – 1873 and his own Villa Studio built in 1884 ; near the Villa Garnier ;
• Town hall of Bordighera built in 1872 – 1878 ;
• Church of the Immaculate Conception or Terrasanta built between 1879 / 83 – 1898 .
Garnier liked to say about Bordighera : “... Is there something more distinctive , more Eastern , more ‘ One Thousand and One Nights ’?”
It is probably because of this conviction that he decided to design a church typical of the mendicant orders of Palestine . The son of Charles Garnier , Christian , decided , when his
Many of the restaurants serve pizza and pasta and simple Ligurian fare . There is seriously good dining to be had also .
© Depositphotos . com
Many of the restaurants serve pizza and pasta and simple Ligurian fare . There is seriously good dining to be had also . One of the best is the Michelin guide ’ s restaurant Osteria Magiargé . The food is excellent as are the prices for the quality . And the wine — wow — you have the choice of the local red Rossesse , or for a local white a crisp Vermentino , or a subtle fruity Pigato . And remember how close you are to Piemonte as you can go to heaven with a Barolo or Barbaresco .
The church of Sant ’ Ampelio , the patron saint of Bordighera ( XI century ) Часовня Святого Ампелия , покровителя Бордигеры ( XI в .)
Hello Monaco Winter 2021 – 2022 / 127 www . hellomonaco . ru