Hello Monaco #08 Winter 2019–2020 HM 2019 #08_web | Page 113

MONACO NEIGHBOURHOOD @www.saint-pauldevence.com @philhaber.com What to do in this jewel? Im- merse yourself in art or his- tory or both just by walking through the town — it hap- pens naturally. Let HelloMona- co guide you on a walk through Saint-Paul de Vence. Soak up the history and art as you walk. Medieval walls encircle narrow Penitents Chapel aka Folon Chapel streets and capture the herit- age of more than a thousand years. Seven landmarks to cover will be an tower with sneaky hidden openings to pour enjoyable hour well spent. boiling oil on invaders. Turn right and take in the panorama of Saint-Paul’s countryside, source of grapes and olives and truffles and PLACE DU JEU DE BOULES honey, as well as the Mediterranean Sea. En- BENEATH THE RAMPARTS AT THE ENTRANCE TO ter the cemetery. Koons, Niki de Saint-Phalle and a host of other brilliant artists. You are in nothing other than an open-air gallery — a kaleidoscope of art. LA PLACETTE Hover for a while on this little square, rejuve- nated by the tinkling sound of water in the fountain and then on to: PLACE DE LA GRANDE FONTAINE This was once the market square. Enjoy the coolness of the air in the vaulted washhouse where washerwomen would gather to scrub and beat their washing. THE VILLAGE A celebrated square lined with century- old plane trees. Yves Montand and Lino Ventura played hotly disputed games of pétanque here. PLACE DE L’ÉGLISE Turn right, up Montée de la Castre — a love story awaits — Number 2 is the house that Simone Signoret lovingly shared with Yves Montand. Continue to Place de l’Église, the highest point in the village. This square is edged with monu- ments that are jewels from Saint-Paul’s illustrious past: the keep of the château now the Mairie (town hall) of Saint-Paul, the Church of the Conversion of Saint- Paul from the 14th and 16th centuries, and last but not least the Folon chapel. Perhaps you are looking for a more ac- tive visit and a more casual ambiance. Then HelloMonaco suggests you do the medieval town walk before lunch. ONE OF THE FINEST MEDIEVAL TOWNS ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA, SAINT-PAUL DE VENCE IS CELEBRATED FOR ITS CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES. The «Café de la Place» stands on one side: its terrace is the perfect spot for taking in the ambience. Try its inex- pensive table d’hôte lunch after your walk. You will have plenty of mon- ey left over. The famous «La Colombe d’Or» is on the other side of the Place. Lunch here is a little pricey but what is the price of an unforgettable experience — following on the heels of its regulars who in- cluded the greatest artists of the 20th cen- tury: Matisse, Chagall, Picasso, Braque, Léger, Folon, etc. Continuing your walk follow the ramparts, climbing towards the fortified inner part of the village, and enter by the Porte de Vence. LA PORTE DE VENCE AND THE RAMPARTS This awe-inspiring, majestic gateway and the ramparts are still intact from their historic origins. The entrance is also protected by a THE CEMETERY Several centuries old Cypresses shade the grave of artist Marc Chagall, who spent the final years of his life in Saint-Paul and died at the age of 97. RUE GRANDE Leave the cemetery through the Porte de Nice and take Rue Grande. Take the time to browse along Rue Grande, the beating artistic heart of this cultural mecca. Wander into artist studios, art galleries, boutiques and craft shops. Gal- lery windows display works by Chagall, César, Eat lunch at «Café de la Place», inexpensive good hearty food and cheerful ambiance. And then walk or cycle it off after lunch on a path that starts between the ramparts and the restaurant «La Petite Chapelle». There is an outstanding view over 2 hectares of ter- raced vineyards. Continue walking among fra- grant citrus trees and bitter orange trees, with scented flowers. And you will pass century-old olive trees and fig trees. From courtine Saint Mître, admire the 80 recently planted truffle oaks. Follow the pines along courtine Sainte- Hello Monaco Winter 2019–2020 / 111 www.hellomonaco.com