Features
The calm before the storm—Bancas off Cabulauan Island.
We quickly contacted Mike of Puerto del Sol Resort, Busuanga
Bay (the delightful bay where the Houghtons and Larkans moor
their respective vessels), and felt much happier once on the end of
a strong mooring line next to Resolute in a sheltered bend of the
river mouth. Perhaps we relaxed too much. Our chief adviser in
nautical matters, Andrew Kellow of Dragon Marine Ltd, urged us
to hasten north to Subic Bay. In retrospect we should have done
so, but at the time we were worried about the possibility of Haiyan
deviating, as late-season typhoons often do, and were reluctant to
leave a spot that seemed so secure. And we weren’t aware of the
full horror of what was to come until it was too late for us to leave. So
that’s how we found ourselves in the direct path of a storm tipped to
reach wind speeds of up to 400 kph with a 40 to 50-foot tidal surge.
The Houghtons were still in HK, but the Larkans were good soul
mates. We busied ourselves preparing our vessels. Jackie and I
stripped Brigadoon bare, even tucking the booms below deck,
and ran all the halyards up the masts. Our intention was to stay
aboard, but on the last fretful night before the storm we changed
our minds and at 7:00am ran up to charming Jimmy of the Al Faro
Resort overlooking the bay and asked if we could stay with him.
He was delighted at the suggestion, and changed his plans to
leave. So, in the end, it was the hard core of Jimmy, us three and
two staff—Nitnit and Mel—who saw the storm out. It was quite
convivial really. As the wind increased, we sat amiably together in
the kitchen, sharing our last supper.
40 Hebe jebes • Jan/Feb 2014
Even as the storm built up, it didn’t
seem much different to those we’d
experienced in HK. Only at the
climax, when the glass shattered,
did we think ‘Hope it doesn’t get
much worse than this’! But then
there was the peace of the eye
passing over us. It had come four
or five hours earlier than we’d
expected. It was only when the wind
funnelled from behind us that the
boats were affected. There were
seven vessels in the bay. All of
them moved, apart from us. Rory
and Shelly, who stayed aboard
Shelly D, had a night they wouldn’t
care to repeat. Just after 10pm they
were hit by a gust which seemed to
fall down the hillside with katabatic
force, bouncing off the water and
registering 92 kts on F