26 GSCENE
WITH MORHAM
BY MORHAM WHITE
On reviewing my list of reports I have to admit that I struggled to find
much new with just five venues reviewed in 2012 with trips to: The
Artisan in the Floral Garden in Hove, already defunct; Kambi’s (107
Western Rd, Brighton, 01273 327934), a delightful alternative
Lebanese offering, which for me was a real education; The Coalshed (8
Boyce’s St, Brighton, 01273 322998), a very busy and upmarket steak
house; The Courtyard (20 New Rd, Brighton, 01273 819600), provided
some traditional dishes for the
weary tourist; The Shelleys Hotel
(135-136 High St, Lewes, 01273
472361), 4 star hotel provided a
stunning setting for a truly chic
culinary experience; and a day trip
to France, ending up in Boulogne,
with the three courses at Le
Ramparts being ridiculously
reasonable, if not quite to the
standard of our regular haunt, Le
Swan.
Other venues I visited included The
Fisherman’s Rest (123-125 King's
Rd, Brighton, 01273 323 888) who
provided a substantial and lengthy
Sunday repast and prelude to the
Golden Handbags; Tottington Manor (Edburton Rd, Henfield, West
Sussex, 01903 815757), a stylish escape to the country with Sara at
the helm; The Rock ‘n’ Roller (95 Western Rd, Brighton, 01273 710
014), with the nicest rump steak I’ve had in an age, though if you’re
not keen on loud music you may need earplugs!
For breakfast I’ve enjoyed Bill’s (100 North Rd, Brighton, 01273
692894), Billie’s (34 Hampton Place, Brighton, 01273 774 386), The
Hub (118 Church Rd, Hove, 01273 721838), new find The Diner (11-13
Montefiore Rd, Hove, 01273 739 483) and local hospitality in the bay
window of the Cavalaire Hotel (34 Upper Rock Gdns, Brighton, 01273
696899).
A BAR
LEGENDS
For an in-town lunch or ’lite bite’ I like to sit in the Pavilion Gardens
Café with a rock bun and freshly prepared sandwich or The Garden
Café in St Anne’s Wells Gardens with mackerel paté, leaves and toast.
Excellent indoor options are at I Gigi (31a Western Rd, Hove, 01273
775257) and Treacle & Co (164 Church Rd, Hove, 01273 933695).
For evening meals there’s Charles
Street for grazing or full supper; a
simple supper for a quiet moment in the
New Steine Bistro (10-11 New Steine,
Brighton, 01273 681546) or join their
quarterly supper club (next one March,
[email protected]) with
wines provided by Henry Butler from
Butlers Wine Cellar (247 Queens Park Rd, Brighton, 01273 698724).
In Kemptown there’s The Town House (81-82 St James’ St, 01273 693
216); The Ginger Dog (12-13 College Pl, 01273 620990), a good bet for
a stylish meal; and The Swan (9 Rock St, 01273 606138) with a
courtyard garden.
In Hove I enjoy Topolino Duo (65-67 Church Rd, Hove, 01273 725726)
with its excellent specialist fish menu and L’Eglise (196 Church Rd,
Hove, 01273 220868) for traditional French cuisine.
A RETURN OF HIGH CAMP TO KEMPTOWN?
BETTY LA LA’S, 22 St James’ Street, Kemptown, 01273 693444
In fact, apart from the zebra print
and mirrors, Betty’s was a bit of a
dénouement as it was so low key. So
what was I expecting? Well, I’m not
at all sure, but possibly not the
delightful meal we were actually
served. The menu, although limited,
was quite varied and very keenly
priced, except for the 10oz Rump steak, all the mains were well under
£10. Though the wines were in
limited supply our Merlot was quite
excellent and a mere £15.50, with the
house wine priced at £11.95.
Things started off unsteady with John
pressured to order, then a sulk at his
choice of duck egg and anchovy
soldier starter going AWOL and then a
hissy fit when his main, the grilled
Salmon, also went missing. Starters included tasty Parma ham wraps
with sweet onion marmalade and a truly crunchy deep-fried calamari,
both under £5. For mains we had a cottage pie with veg, chicken
casserole with French bread for mopping and a stylish Boursin
chicken with asparagus, the most expensive of these at just £8.45 and
a side of crunchy sweet potato chips for a mere £1.65.
With only two desserts available, sticky toffee or banoffee, we moved
on to coffee and the bill came in at £65 for the three of us, for two
courses, nice wine and coffees all round. Service, courtesy of Tomaz,
was both friendly and slick, and somehow not at all the ‘camp’
experience that the name had suggested… so has Camp returned?
Possibly not! But the food was simple, nicely prepared, extremely keenly
priced, an excellent deal and just what St James' Street needs.
Meals with a sea view can be enjoyed at the A-Bar (11-12 Marine
Parade, Brighton, 01273 696691), Charles Street (8 Marine Parade,
Brighton, 01273 624091) and Legends (31-34 Marine Parade, Brighton,
01273 624462). In the Lanes I continue to frequent Browns (3-4 Duke
St, Brighton, 01273 323501).
Out of town there’s variety galore: Wickwoods Country Club (Shaves
Wood Lane, Albourne, 01273 857567), has had an impressive makeover
and the excellent carvery, with musical accompaniment has really taken
off; The Ginger Fox, (Muddleswood Rd, Albourne, 01273 857888) with
an abundance of free parking; the Marco Pierre White makeover of The
Rainbow, (Resting Oak Hill, Cooksbridge, 01273 400334) has to my
BETTY LA LA’S
FISHERMAN’S REST
THE SHELLEYS HOTEL
DINING WITH MORHAM IN 2012
mind been less than successful with a disappointing menu; sample the
eccentric simplicity of a summer platter in Litlington Tea Gardens,
(Litlington, Alfriston) and further east The Café at East Dean next to
the pub offers excellent cakes and coffee.
NEW STEINE BISTRO
COME DINE