CHARISMATIC KARIJINI WORDS: LINDA LEE RATHBUN IMAGES: STEVEN DAVID MILLER/NATURAL WANDERS It would be tragic to tour Western Australia’s Pilbara region and not visit Karijini. This stupendous national park, ripped open by deep gorges and carved by scalpels of water, is perfection itself. While most of the highlights are accessible via sealed roads, unsealed roads such as Banjima Drive North are littered with rocks that have had nothing better to do for the last several thousand million years than to sharpen their edges in anticipation of eating your tyres for breakfast. Be sure to lower your tyre pressure before driving on these roads. Hamersley Gorge is not to be missed. Don’t make the mistake of thinking your visit should be quick; instead, plan to stay awhile. Ideally, set up camp at Dales for several days and then again at the Karijini Eco Retreat campground for several more days.