A
John and Sherry Hemingway, Peter and Ann Tarlton, Janet and Michael Thompson and Laura and Jeff Lundy.
mong the world’s most enchanting
walks, Japan’s Nakasendo Way
traces beautifully preserved
sections of the ancient highways of the samurai. The adventure
offers deep insight into Japan, both as it was and is now.
Dating back to the 7th century, the Nakasendo Way
became especially important during the Edo Period
(1603-1868) when the Tokugawa family ruled Japan as
shogun. The roadway connected Kyoto and Tokyo, with
post-towns offering its travelers inns, shops, and porter
services. Some still operate today.
Last spring, a group of us, spouses and friends, traveled
to Japan to walk the historic Nakasendo Way. Our group
included Laura and Jeff Lundy and Janet and Michael
Thompson of San Martin; Sherry and John Hemingway of
Morgan Hill; and (John’s sister) Ann and Peter Tarlton of
New Hampshire. Over the course of nine days, we walked
80 miles in the footsteps of Japanese history, and met
unforgettably charming people along the way.
We booked our trip through Walk Japan (walkjapan.
com). They handled lodging reservations and luggage
transfers, and provided our tour guide, Giorgio, who greatly
enriched our trip experience. He interpreted Japanese
history, culture, and customs with humor and depth. Italian
by birth, Giorgio has made Japan his home for the past 13
years. In remote rural areas where there was little to no
English written or spoken, his fluent Japanese was essential
to our understanding and enjoyment of everything.
GILROY • MORGAN HILL • SAN MARTIN
Nakasendo’s Origin
The Nakasendo Way stretches east-west through the heart
of Japan from Kyoto to Tokyo, winding through 330 miles
of forests, waterways, and low mountains with elevations
exceeding 4,000 feet.
Four centuries ago, the route was a source of power in
the Shogun Tokugawa’s control of Japan from his base at
Edo Castle (later renamed Tokyo). He stationed his shogun
lords across the land and ‘invited’ their wives and children
to live in Tokyo. Thus, the shoguns had to travel to Tokyo
to see their families and pay taxes.
Since the trip could take three weeks, the roadway was
developed with 69 carefully-spaced juku (post towns)
offering food and shelter. Large stones served as distance
markers. Carved stone deities were a symbol of protection.
Tea houses welcomed weary travelers.
Starting in Kyoto
Before our walking tour, we explored the ancient capital of
Kyoto on our own. Sightseeing included the UNESCO World
Heritage site, Nijo-jo Castle, a treasure from the golden
age of architecture.
Japan’s geisha continue to be the subject of fascination
and legend among the world’s visitors. Each spring, in the
Gion district in Kyoto, the geisha come into public view
for limited performances of the Miyako Odori. Luckily,
tickets were available for this rare show of traditional
dance and music.
april/may 2019
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