Influencing & Crafting
After generations of native and global civilizations have drawn on the intense biodiversity of this South American country, to combine local influences with dishes reminiscent of home kitchens around the world. How did Peru evolve to the power we know today?
When the Spanish explorers first arrived in Peru it was an exchange of ideas, cultures and knowledge. This mixture of Western and Eastern tradition, has lead to a Spanish stigma on Peru’s stews and soups, as the heavy Arabic influence became apparent on their desserts and to the increased use of lemon on their dishes.
As the Spanish left Peru, they brought to Europe from the New World several ingredients that would form the basis of the modern European diet. The tomatoes and the lowly potato gave rise to modern industrial agriculture and the evolution of European cuisine.
The migration waves from across the world lead to an influx of different ethnicities arriving to Peru and the marriage of these culinary cultures with the Peruvian. The African contributions led to the development of Creole cooking. The Japanese brought along the preparations of fish and shellfish which influenced the ceviche and tiradito whilst giving birth to the Nikkei cuisine. Whilst the Chinese culinary methods have given birth to one of the most popular gastronomic tradition in Peru: chifa.
The originality of Peru’s cuisine stems not just from its traditional cooking, but it also continues to incorporate new influences, preparing exquisite and impeccable dishes that have been dubbed the New Peruvian Cuisine.
By Georgios Zachariades
The Neoperuvian Movement
Gaston Acurio, probably one of the first chefs to earn such mass worship, has been the driving force and inspiration behind the revolution of Peru’s gastronomic scene and its exploitation worldwide by serving as Peru’s Culinary Ambassador abroad. (Bansal, 2016)
This has led to today’s status quo, in which Lima is one of the hottest culinary hotspots boasting three of the world’s 50 best restaurants:
Central by Virgilio Martinez, no. 5
Maido by Mitsuharu Tsumura, No.8
Astrid y Gaston by Gaston Acurio No.33
Because of this dynamism that has been driving the development of Peru’s food industry has been growing at a rate of 7-8 % in recent years, while the number of restaurants has more than doubled from 45,000 in 2005 to 100,000 in 2013; thus, directly or indirectly benefiting around 5.5 million Peruvians.
As the chefs are achieving a celebrity status they also focus their attention in a variety of issues. Virgilio Martinez has been involved in the project “Mater Initiative” in which they travel around Peru to discover new products and compile the histories of them. Whilst Gaston and Astrid Acurio have been involved on promoting and supporting the farming of indigenous Peruvian products such as potatoes, corn and cocoa and that they get the attention and recognition that they truly deserve (Bansal, 2016; Rosemberg, 2017). At the end of the day, the chefs need the farmers to produce various and good quality products. It is them who can make or break the chefs and the culinary scene of a country. They are both the motivational and driving force behind every flavorsome creation and bite.