The first thing that comes to mind when thinking about Lima and Peruvian Cuisine is probably Ceviche or Pisco, that depends a bit on the interest in Gastronomy or liquor. Both are of course also possible, in Lima both were served in almost every restaurant you could find. Not only in Lima but all over the world Ceviche is increasing in popularity, it was South America’s best-kept secret for centuries but now, with also Peruvian cuisine on the rise, it’s raising recognition.
Now how to define Ceviche; first of all it’s referred to in different ways, some call it seviche or cebiche this depends on the region. Ceviche is basically seafood prepared in a centuries old method of cooking the seafood, by contact with acidic juice of citrus instead of using heat. This chemical process that occurs, when the acid of the citrus comes in contact with the fish is similar when the fish is cooked. The fish becomes opaque and firm.
In Peru the Ceviche is mostly made with lemon, the traditional ingredients include fish, shellfish or shrimp. Other ingredients can include sweet potatoes, corn, salad leaves, the Aji Amarillo pepper and thin cut onions. Next to that cilantro is most of the times added. These were also the main ingredients we experienced throughout our trip in Lima. During our visit at La Mar, a well-known fish restaurant in Lima, we were served a Ceviche of tuna, squid and sea bass. The juice that stays in the plate after eating the fish is called tiger milk, in Peru this is seen as a hangover cure.
The history of the dish is up for discussion, some say the dish originates in the coastal regions of the Inca Empire, the chefs would curate the seafood in chichi, this is a liquor made of yellow corn. Some say the dish was only born when the Spanish conquistadors arrived, this lead to a mix of cuisines and the Incas were introduced to Mediterranean ingredients, like cilantro and different citrus fruits. The last believe is that ceviche came with the Japanese immigration that started in 1899, once in Peru the Japanese adapted their traditional sashimi and included local ingredients and flavors. Maybe the history will stay uncertain but what is for sure is that Peru and the whole world by now, is obsessed with the raw seafood dish, so much so that it inspired a national holiday. June 28 is el Día Nacional del Cebiche, or National Ceviche Day.
By Lotte Van Der Post