Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine September 2016 | Page 126

124 Travel | Copenhagen © S-F / Shutterstock Don’t be deceived by those dark Nordic detective stories and glum philosophers. It seems there’s plenty to smile about in the Danish capital. Over the years, all manner of surveys on wellbeing and life satisfaction have placed the Danes – and, more particularly, residents of Copenhagen – near the top of happiness lists. This is often explained by their personal freedoms, top-notch education system, good social services and security. And Danes have a rather pleasant life, pedalling about on bicycles, playing with LEGO and listening to their nifty Bang & Olufsen stereos. But will any of this happiness rub off on mere visitors to this cheerful and chirpy city? Surely yes, because Copenhagen’s relaxed lifestyle and considerable chic and urban assets are available to anyone. You can get on a bike yourself, wander safely about after dark, and enjoy the best of Danish design in both fashion and food, because Copenhagen’s style and experimental flair is seen in restaurants and boutiques alike. Something else to make you happy: Copenhagen blends lovely old things (castles, cathedrals, cobblestones) with just as lovely new things (designer furniture, avant-garde architecture, music festivals). The city is unexpectedly contemporary and cutting-edge, yet also fulfils the stereotypes you expect of Scandinavia: chic bars, minimalist chairs, houses that look as if they’re made from gingerbread, long summer nights. But, even in the chill darkness of Copenhagen’s winter, there are things to make you smile. What the Danes call hygge (cosiness) is everywhere. Candles flicker on windowsills, lights sparkle, snow falls. You can ice skate in an old town square and feel as if you’re in a fairy tale. Maybe Danes are happy because they know that fairy tales really do come true. After all, they aren’t just brought up on the stories of Hans Christian Andersen, but are familiar with the tale of Australian girl Mary Donaldson, who met ‘Fred’ in a Sydney pub and is now the crown princess and future queen of Denmark. Stroll down to Amalienborg for a glimpse of royal life: Crown Prince Frederick and his wife live in one dainty palace, Queen Margrethe II in another. At noon, soldiers in blue jackets and bearskin helmets perform a Changing of the Guards ceremony that could be straight out of a children’s fantasy. Queen Margrethe has often been spotted pedalling around the city on her bicycle. If you want to feel cheerful in Copenhagen, follow suit. This is one foreign city where you won’t have to work out bus routes or cram into overcrowded trains. A bike provides you with fresh air, exercise and an intimate look at the city, and will certainly bring you closer to its residents. Half the people here cycle daily, using 300km of cycle lanes, many with their own dedicated traffic lights and parking bays. Pedal out along the waterfront, taking in the Little Mermaid statue as you go – actually one of the few people in Copenhagen who looks a bit glum as she sits on her chilly rock.