Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine June 2018 | Page 131

Travel | Kaimana The experience of being in the water with such beautiful creatures is pure magic. “Some bagan fishers said they did this because the sharks represented ancestors and brought good luck; others more pragmatically explained that, if the whale sharks congregate around their bagans in the morning, they are more likely to also attract skipjack tuna, Spanish mackerel and sailfish,” observes Abraham Sianipar, Elasmobranch Conservation Management Specialist from CI. From talking to the fishermen, scientists understood that the presence of bagan lift net boats had created one of the most reliable places across the archipelago to have an unforgettable encounter with whale sharks. Sequoia captain Ms Suriani has planned for us to arrive near the bagan boats of Triton Bay just before sunrise. As the first light of dawn glows in the east, dive master Yohardik Lumettu briefs us on the plan for the morning: “We will ask the fishermen if they’ve seen a whale shark in the early hours – if we’re able to find one feeding at the bagan, we can get in the water with them.” 5 Senses – Sight AIDUMA ISLAND BEACHES It sounds simple enough, but the anticipation in the great room of Sequoia is electric, as everyone checks and double checks their gear as they anticipate this once-in-a-lifetime chance to see these gentle giants of the sea. The cobalt-coloured waters of Triton Bay are glassy calm as we venture out in the tender boat, the horizon line blending with the golden light of the morning sky like a mirror. 129 Arriving at one of the bagan fishing boats, we find Akbar, a 22-year-old fisherman, tending to an enormous lift net. He and his fellow fishermen are trying to catch thousands of ikan puri – tiny silverside minnows that are then dried or sold as bait for larger species. Sequoia dive master Yohardik has arranged to buy some ikan puri from Akbar, which will be used to hand feed the sharks. “This morning, we already have two whale sharks here,” says Akbar, perching on the wood and bamboo frame of the net. Behind him, we hear a sound like an enormous bathtub draining – the whale sharks are at the surface and feeding. Pinneng, my dive buddy and fellow underwater photographer, has a glint of excitement in his eye as he does a final prep on his scuba tank. One by one, six of us take the plunge, jumping in the water for an encounter with one of the most amazing animals on the planet. Diving below the surface, I’m greeted by the enormous sickle tail of a seven-metre whale shark sweeping past, its refrigerator- sized mouth taking in gulps of sparkling silver ikan puri dropped from above by Akbar and his friends. Even after more than 10 years of swimming with these huge fish, my heart rate never fails to go into overdrive when I’m in the water with them. Beautiful white-sand beaches, rugged formations of karst limestone, sapphire-blue water – and not a soul in sight. The coastline of Kaimana’s Aiduma Island is every bit as beautiful as the world beneath the waves. Perfect for sea kayaking or a relaxing afternoon on a deserted beach, this is Indonesian island beauty at its finest. Pantai Pulau Aiduma di Kaimana sama indahnya dengan dunia bawah lautnya. Pantai pasir putih yang cantik, formasi bebatuan kapur, air berwarna biru safir— dan tidak terlihat satu pun pengunjung lain. Pulau terindah di Indonesia ini adalah lokasi sempurna untuk berkayak atau bersantai sore di pantainya yang sepi. Karst limestone islands in Kaimana are very similar to the legendary archipelago of nearby Raja Ampat.