158 Banyuwangi
FRAGRANT WATERS
Words by Jack Orchard
As the ferry chugs across the Bali Strait to Java ’ s east coast the thought springs to mind that we are entering a land that has traditionally been known as ‘ Fragrant Waters ’.
The name of Banyuwangi town is derived from an old Javanese folk tale involving a rather temperamental knight and a wronged damsel .
Apparently , the faithful damsel swore that if she were innocent then no blood would flow at her execution . As promised , ‘ fragrant water ’ flowed miraculously from the kris wounds that killed her .
These days Banyuwangi has become a base camp for a whole series of adventures and expeditions throughout the region . Some visitors are just passing through the town en route to the legendary surf breaks of G-Land or Red Island . Others come to dive at Tabuhan Island or to visit the famous turtle hatcheries at Sukamade Beach . Baluran National Park ( just 30 minutes from the city ) offers wonderful trekking and camping amid an unexpected piece of what appears to be African savannah that is home to wild buffalo , deer , monkeys and countless bird species . The majority of Banyuwangi ’ s visitors , however , are lured by a chance to explore the dramatic volcanic peaks in the area .
Mount Ijen is the holy grail of the whole chain of spectacular volcanoes in this area . Local experts Backyard Travel ( www . backyardtravel . com ) offer a week-long tour that starts in Yogyakarta and tackles mighty Mt Bromo before crossing Banyuwangi
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