Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine June 2016 | Page 130

128 Travel | Istanbul Wherever you go along the Bosphorus waterfront – on either the Asian or European shore – you see fishermen. And wherever there are fishermen there are sure to be cats! An old man drinks from a fountain near Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. Visit old Istanbul at this most special of times and you’re sure to fall in love with the city... The Bosphorus, which divides Europe and Asia, has been teeming with vessels for more than 4,000 years. Byzantium (as Istanbul was originally known) was already a flourishing centre of art, science and commerce when the major cities of Europe were little more than barbarian hamlets. The earliest Anatolian and Trojan fishing boats plied these waters as did Byzantine slavers, Roman galleons, and Venetian and Ottoman traders. Gazing down from my high-rise suite in the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, it’s easy to imagine that 4,000 years from now a new breed of futuristic hover-transporters will still be carrying intercontinental commuters between ultra-space-age trade centres on European and Asian shores. I find it harder to imagine, however, that in just a couple of days this great city will be transformed into a relative ghost town: the commuter boats will slim down to just a skeleton fleet and the traffic jams along the waterfront will become a mere trickle of cars. The great Muslim celebration of Eid is just around the corner, and the vast majority of Istanbul’s 14 million city dwellers (some estimates say it fluctuates up to 20 million) will make their annual journey out to their villages to celebrate the end of Ramadan. With virtually traffic-free city-centre roads and ample seats on the trams and commuter ferries, this period offers a unique opportunity to enjoy the city at its most stress-free. “I love Istanbul during Eid because it’s so quiet,” says Mine Kasapoğlu, a sales professional who chooses to walk to work rather than battle the city’s notorious traffic on a daily basis. “If you’re looking for a relaxing city break, to enjoy a slower pace of life and uncrowded restaurants, then it’s the perfect time to visit.” Most of the world’s massive cities can feel overpowering due to sheer size and congested traffic, yet even at its busiest Istanbul somehow escapes the curse of more frantic ‘megatropolises’ because of the ageless waterways that carve it into separate, manageable quarters. The ancient quarter of Sultanahmet, for example, is one of the greatest historical treasure-houses on the planet. Last year Istanbul was ranked as the world’s fifth most visited city and an estimated 12 million tourists were drawn to Sultanahmet to visit © thipjang / Shutterstock; © Mark Eveleigh A view of the Galata Tower from the Bosphorus.