Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine June 2016 | Page 111

Travel | Solo 109 © Mark Eveleigh; © Courtesy of Alila Solo 5 Senses – Sight KAMPONG KAUMAN Royal guards on duty at the main entrance to Keraton Kasunanan palace. While Kampong Laweyan has many fine batik outlets, Kampong Kauman is the prime batik-producing quarter. Batik Gunasti, one of the most famous producers, is located in a timber building with an evocative café. Apart from stocking a massive range of beautiful batik attire and souvenirs, it is also a great place to watch some of the most talented artisans at work. You can even join a class and produce a batik of your own. An old man cycles past a richly decorated pavilion at Keraton Kasunanan palace. It strikes me that Solo is home to a living history in more ways than one. “Red protects them from evil, for example,” says Ibu Endang, “orange guards against fear, purple prevents bad thoughts, white is a talisman against sexual desires, green combats frustration…” We take off our shoes to enter the museum that now occupies what was once the dalem throne room. “I see it [as] not only a sign of respect but also of democracy,” Ibu Endang jokes. “Look around: there are no high heels or sneakers among us now. We’re all on the same level.” The throne room remains as it did when it was built in 1757, and a stuffed Sumatran tiger and Javanese leopard still flank the royal thrones. Glass cabinets display a fascinatingly eclectic collection of artefacts that belonged to nine generations of Mangkunegara kings: jewellery, statues, chastity belts (female and male) and religious paraphernalia related to the unique combination of Muslim, Hindu and Buddhist practices that mark the particular religion of the Mangkunegara family. At one end of the room is a collection of krises, scimitars and even Japanese swords, and the cabinets that contain them are protected with offerings to appease the spirits that are said to still reside in these weapons. While tradition reigns supreme in the throne room, outside in one of the old stables stands a Volkswagen three-wheel motorbike that belongs to the current king, who happens to be a Harley-Davidson fanatic. It strikes me that Solo is home to a living history in more ways than one. While Pura Mangkunegaran has received muchneeded renovation, the slightly older Keraton Kasunanan palace, on the other side of the city, is sadly falling into disrepair. The iconic sky-blue Kampung Laweyan memiliki banyak outlet batik halus sedangkan Kampung Kauman adalah kawasan utama produksi batik. Batik Gunasti, salah satu produsen paling terkenal, terletak di sebuah bangunan kayu dan memiliki kafe penuh nostalgia. Selain menyediakan banyak sekali stok baju batik dan suvenir bagus, di sini Anda juga bisa menyaksikan beberapa pengrajin paling berbakat sedang berkreasi. Anda bahkan dapat mengikuti kursus singkat dan membuat batik Anda sendiri.