Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine June 2016 | Page 131

Travel | Istanbul

© Mark Eveleigh; © Pashin Georgiy / Shutterstock; © Leyla Ismet / Shutterstock

such architectural gems as Hagia Sophia Mosque,
Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace and the Grand
Bazaar. Despite this, Sultanahmet somehow
retains the relaxing atmosphere of a relatively
sleepy rural village in comparison with the frenetic
pace of life in the modern city that lies on the other
side of the Golden Horn.

“Sultanahmet is a very special place to be during
Ramadan,” says Mine Kasapoğlu. “It’s like a busy
little carnival for an entire month. Families stroll
around until late, tasting special Ottoman foods
and listening to local music. There is lots of sugary
strong Turkish coffee to keep people awake until
it is time to stop eating in the early morning!”

During Ramadan and Eid, Sultanahmet
becomes a centre of celebration for many
Istanbul Muslims, and visiting at this time
will give you a unique insight into the city.
For non-Muslims and people who are not fasting,
most of the tourist-based restaurants remain open
through the day (although some will refrain from
selling alcohol). Many even offer special Ramadan
menus with seasonal specialities. While there is no
official restriction on eating during fasting hours,
it is considered respectful to your hosts if you
refrain from eating in public areas.

Şeker Bayramı (literally ‘Sugar Feast’) is the
uniquely Turkish celebration that comes at
the end of the month of fasting. The three and
a half days of festivities that are known as Eid
ul-Fitr in most of the Muslim world are honoured
here with a celebration of sweetness when people
enjoy candies, chocolates, honey-bathed baklava
pastries and delicious lokum (Turkish delight).

As evening falls in the parks and gardens of
Sultanahmet, food stalls start to exhibit the
unique delicacies that will be offered for sale
once the fast has broken after sunset. Traditional
forms of entertainment such as the Karagöz
and Hacivat shadow puppets and even
Whirling Dervish shows are often arranged
by the municipality or by hotels and restaurants
that provide special Ramadan packages. As one
of the most northern cities in the Islamic world,
Istanbul enjoys sunlight until 9pm in the summer
evenings, meaning that there is a heightened
feeling of anticipation leading up to the moment
when the green light shines out from the mosque
minarets and the fast is broken.

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Scores of ferries ply the length
of the Bosphorus. They are still
a lifeline for thousands of people
from the villages between the Black
Sea and the Sea of Marmara.
A street vendor on the dockside at
Eminonu (central Istanbul) sells s alep.
This warming winter drink is made
from crushed tapioca roots and
flavoured with cinnamon.

In recent years lights were stretched across
the minarets of the Blue Mosque with a phrase
that read ‘Let us love. Let us be loved.’ Visit old
Istanbul at this most special of times and you’re
sure to fall in love with the city that, for good
reason, has long been known as the
‘Queen of Cities’.

5 Senses – Touch
TURKISH HAMAM
You will never understand
Istanbul life until you have spent
a decadent afternoon relaxing in
a hamam (Turkish steam-bath).
Turkish hamams are strictly
segregated into male areas
and female areas. Çemberlitaş
Hamam, one of the most
beautiful and the oldest (dating
back to 1584), is the ideal place
to spend a morning soaking
and to enjoy a massage. It is
also conveniently located if
you happen to be staggering
out of the bazaar loaded down
with purchases.
Anda tidak akan memahami
kehidupan Istanbul sebelum
Anda menjajal bersantai di
hammam (pemandian uap
ala Turki). Hammam Turki
memiliki area khusus laki-laki
dan perempuan yang terpisah.
Hammam Çemberlitaş, salah
satu yang paling indah dan
tertua (berdiri tahun 1584),
adalah tempat yang ideal untuk
menghabiskan pagi sambil
berendam dan menikmati pijat.
Tempat ini juga bisa dicapai
dengan mudah jika Anda
kebetulan keluar dari Grand
Bazaar dengan membawa
banyak barang belanjaan.