Garuda Indonesia Colours Magazine January 2020 | Page 80

Travel / Bukittinggi 5 I  n the orange twilight, Mount Singgalang and Mount Marapi stand proud, like giants protecting the city. pleasant and peaceful,” says Asraferi Sabri, a middle-aged local, who tells me about his city while we enjoy a cup of coffee in a stall at Sianok Canyon. "Het zoogenaamde Karbouwengat, Sianok Canyon is the cleanest place I have ever seen," wrote L.C. Westenenk, a controller at Fort de Kock, in a 1909 travel guidebook for Dutch tourists. He described the Minangkabau Highlands, or Padangsche Bovenlanden, and their diverse panorama: Bukik Ampang-ampang, and Bukik Ambacang Racecourse, which he referred to as mooi, or ‘beautiful’. Nowadays, horse races attract crowds to Bukit Ambacang each year. Located 100km from Padang, the provincial capital of West Sumatra, Bukittinggi has been a prime tourist 78 destination since colonial times. The colonial government spent a large sum of money constructing a railway line connecting Padang to Bukittinggi at the end of the 19 th century, and, at the same time, a track opened leading to the mining town of Sawahlunto. In 1902, the first train officially began operating, bringing tourists to Bukittinggi. Tickets cost 11 US$ per person, almost the monthly wage of labourers working on Sumatra’s east coast. “The railway lines haven’t been working for a long time,” Asraferi continues. As our conversation ends, rain is falling from the evening sky and the suburbs are locked in silence. One by one, the houses switch on their lights. I leave Asraferi behind and drive through the rainy streets alone. People sit inside the warmth of the street-side stalls, steaming food giving senses: sight Sianok Canyon E/ Sianok Canyon is a long stretch of green valley with a depth of 100m. It officially belongs to the Agam District but is only a 15-minute walk from the heart of Bukittinggi City. The soothing effect of the valley is portrayed on canvas by the Indonesian artist Wakidi, who described it as a timeless, silent valley. I/ Ngarai Sianok adalah lembah hijau sedalam 100 meter yang membentang panjang. Ia sebetulnya tercantum dalam wilayah Kabupaten Agam, namun dapat dijangkau dengan 15 menit berjalan kaki dari jantung Kota Bukittinggi. Suasana lembah yang menenteramkan ini tergambar dalam lukisan seniman Tanah Air, Wakidi, yang menyebutnya sebagai lembah yang kekal dan diam. 1