92 Travel | Tangkahan |
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There were only two ways to access my bed for the night at my jungle accommodation . One was by fording a river by elephant , and the other was via a high swing bridge linking Tangkahan village with the deep jungle . I chose the elephant .
Medicinal plants from the jungle .
Elephant transfer to your lodge .
Aerial view of Tangkahan forest , a place famous for its river adventures .
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As I climbed the tall staircase to a hanging platform , I felt both excited and nervous to see my elephant and mahout ( elephant keeper ) ambling towards me . The elephant moved very slowly and gracefully , which calmed my nerves a little . After clambering on the sturdy padded made-to-measure bench on the elephant , I hung on tightly as my elephant started its walk .
From my lofty position I could see the tops of lower trees as we entered the forest , and as I breathed in the pure air I was cooled by the water droplets falling from the giant tree ferns we brushed past . I soon felt energised and alive here , deep in the jungle in northern Sumatra . My mahout rode bareback , straddling the large fan-shaped ears , which regularly flapped and kept time with the deep , low sounds that emerged from my elephant ’ s chest . She was quite a chatty elephant , and I loved listening to her language .
“ This elephant is 46 years old ,” my mahout said . “ She trumpets quite regularly , especially when a wild elephant calls from the forest
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asking for a date , but she is not interested . So she tells him in her loud manner that it ’ s ‘ game-off ’.”
As we made our way to the river , I received a fascinating running commentary on the variety of medicinal plants we passed along the way . “ Here , smell this one , its siri kayu or eucalyptus , used for mosquito repellent and colds ...,” and on it went .
Part of me was fascinated with this botanical mini-lecture , and the other part of me was focused on the challenging terrain before me . I was amazed that the huge feet of my elephant could so readily negotiate the tricky narrow trail , which would rise steeply only to then descend at a 45˚ angle to some tiny stream before rising sharply again . My mahout casually told me , “ Oh , sometimes , when it ’ s a bit wetter , she decides to slide down this part ,” and I held on just that bit more tightly .
It was at this point , however , that I realised just how exciting this venture into the jungle
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© David Metcalf ; © Barry Kusuma |