Garrison Bespoke's Guide to Dressing The Groom Oct. 2015 | Page 15

15 Suit Construction THE BETTER THE QUALITY, THE LONGER IT LASTS, THE GREATER YOUR INVESTMENT. full canvas pockets Back in the day, suits were made with a layer of horsehair canvas sewn between the lining and jacket cloth. Today, to create suits that are mass-produced and budget friendly, a fused interlining is glued to the jacket’s cloth. Only the finest quality suits incorporate a fully canvased jacket. The canvas provides durability, allowing the jacket to drape properly over the body and overtime, molds to the shape of wearer, resulting in the perfect fit. Not all suit pockets are created equally. Machine stitched pockets are often less durable than hand-sewn pockets and start to unravel with wear. In order to maintain the sleekness and durability of the jacket, ticket-pockets, jetted pockets, or flap pockets should be hand-sewn. To avoid unsightly bulges and sagging, the trouser pockets should be hand-sewn as part of the waistband. This way, they’re supported from the top for a consistent clean line. lining buttons Lining protects the exterior cloth of the suit from bod