PATRICK COLLINS
were so tender even drawn butter was optional. No
winner declared, though at Hall’s we did get the
pleasure of personally walking our rubber bin of
selected live lobsters to the chef ’s counter.
Our survey of local fare culminated in Halifax,
where we could sample locally sourced fare in all its
chef-driven glory.
At Bicycle Thief (Bishop’s Landing in Halifax),
an impromptu meal at the bar turned into a tasty
flavor festival. We shared an appetizer of tuna
tartare with avocado and sesame cucumber pickled
wasabi, and then laid into lamb chops. See? Not
all Maritime food is seafood. The bartenders were
accomplished mixologists, offering seasonal twists
on classics, like my Negroni cocktail.
Emphasizing local wines and ingredients, The Five Fishermen Restaurant in Halifax was worth a second visit just so we
could sample the specialty of the house, The Five Fish. Perfect for
indecisive seafood lovers, it features pan-seared Digby scallops,
halibut and salmon and grilled shrimp – all served on a bed of
luscious lobster risotto. Topped with crispy grilled fennel and
simple lemon beurre blanc, this is a plate that impresses because
it is not overly fussy. The fresh fish are wonderful on their own. A
Nova Scotia white wine, Avondale Sky Tidal Bay 2015, adorned
the meal, offering a slightly sweet, melon-tinged match for the
seafood.
While the cuisine of Atlantic Canada goes way beyond seafood, it’d be a shame not to sample the best the sea has to offer.
Specialty Five Fish plate at The Five Fishermen
Restaurant in Halifax, Nova Scotia.
Bon Appétit
Maritime Canada:
Seafood in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia
T
he maritime provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia
lie on either side of the Bay of Fundy, the phenomenal
home to the world’s greatest tidal extremes. While travel
to both provinces undoubtedly involves seafood chowders and
live lobster plucked from the bay, the culinary heritage of this
northeastern zone encompasses much more.
Back when the British and French were jousting for control of
the area, local Acadians were creating farm land from tidal basins
using dykes and canals. Root vegetables withstood the climatic extremes and are still popular in today’s cuisine. Nearly every meal,
in the summer at least, is accompanied by impressive seasonal
greens and delicate veggies. Farmers markets feature local cheeses,
jams, and condiments, as well as meats and smoked fish. Look for
dulse, too, a sea vegetable still hand gathered at low tide, dried,
and sold for snack fare or seasoning. Enjoy it on your favorite
seafood chowders.
But the fishing industry has always been the backbone of the
area, thriving here between the Outer Banks of Newfoundland
and the population base to the south. This strategic location
proved especially lucrative during Prohibition when fishermen
turned rum runners. Today, local wines and micro beers offer
more accessible beverage options.
Seafood, and specifically lobster, still command center stage in
the region, and fishing villages engage in friendly battles for top
lobster titles. We rolled up our sleeves to compare little lobsters
from Alma’s Lobster Cafe (Alma, New Brunswick) one week,
and Hall’s Harbour Lobster Pound (Nova Scotia) the next. Both
8
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FALL 2016
If You Go
Food Tourism Nova Scotia
Food Tourism New Brunswick
Alma’s Lobster Shop
Hall’s Harbour Lobster Pound
The Bicycle Thief
The Five Fishermen Restaurant
Avondale Sky Wines
Kristin Henning
Kristin Henning is a writer and constant traveler, visiting over
55 countries since giving up her home in Minneapolis in 2010.
She and her husband Tom share their photos and
stories on the travel blog, TravelPast50.com.
Prior to hitting the road, Henning was co-publisher of various periodicals in Minneapolis/St. Paul
(MN), including City Pages, Minnesota Parent, The
Rake magazine, and a guide book, Secrets of the City: Guide to
Minneapolis/St. Paul.