The Revival of
Classic Menswear
“There’s no such thing as a designer of menswear—it’s only history. The suit around the world is based on the English suit, which began in about 1670.” - Hardy Amies
Menswear is timeless. With its history dating back to centuries upon centuries ago, today the same pieces are still being worn, albeit with modern design. Formal attire, such as smoking jackets and tuxedos, has become iconic throughout time. In recent years, whilst menswear has seen a rise in the popularity of prêt-à-porter and High Street collections, classic men’s tailoring, particularly Savile Row, has had a revival. Thanks in large part to the popularity of period drama Downton Abbey, men have been inspired to return to classic pieces, rather than more modern design, ensuring Britain remains renowned for exquisite men’s tailoring
One classic menswear item that has come back into fashion and is particularly iconic to St Andrews is the kilt. With its origins dating back to the 16th Century, the kilt has always been considered a symbol of Scottish national pride, worn often at sporting events, for bagpiping and at formal occasions. Woven from wool, what makes each kilt unique is its tartan pattern, indicative of the wearer’s heritage. More recently tartan has come back into fashion, with kilts showcased on the runway at FS 2012, paying homage to St Andrews’ Scottish heritage, and it is set to remain a key trend in fashion this year.
Downton Abbey has had an overwhelming effect on men’s eveningwear, most notably inspiring designers such as Ralph Lauren and reviving the bespoke tailoring industry. In previous decades, bespoke tailoring had disappeared from the silver screen since the Hollywood Golden Age, a prime example being that of James Bond.
The 007 agent became an iconic figure for menswear from the release of the first film Dr. No in 1962, featuring University of St Andrews’ honorary graduate Sean Connery, wearing bespoke suits by Savile Row tailor Anthony Sinclair. Yet, in more recent Bond films, American fashion designer Tom Ford has dressed the protagonist in prêt-à-porter tuxedos and suits. However, thanks to Downton Abbey Savile Row has made its mark yet again with character Lord Grantham dressed in bespoke tailoring. The show’s Edwardian style has been a source of inspiration particularly to Ralph Lauren’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection.
With Men’s Fashion Week becoming an increasingly popular event in the fashion world and the revival of formal wear and tailoring, menswear is proving it can stand the test of time and keep Britain on the map as a pioneer of true style.
SARAH FEENEY
FS PRESS TEAM
As models walked the runway in tweed and tailored attire to the soundtrack to the program, Ralph Lauren successfully showed that aristocratic style is still relevant in the 21st Century.