TECH
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15. Matt attaches the grid to the metal tabs at the
front of the seat frame, and then uses pliers to pull
each coiled spring into place. Here is what the
seat bottom looks like before the foam goes on. If
the original holes are stretched, you can drill new
holes next to the old ones for a tighter spring.
16. Just like the seatback, the bottom foam also
has a hidden metal frame to which we’ll attach the
upholstery with hog rings.
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17. Getting the first hog ring to connect the adjustable side bolster to the bottom seat foam requires
cutting a vertical slit in the foam. The slit won’t be
visible once the upholstery is in place, but don’t
make it any higher than necessary.
18. It’s a good idea at this point to use a small
screwdriver to make a hole in the rear of the foam
for the lumbar-support air-bladder hose.
19. Cut the foam from where the lumbar power
switches will go (left side for driver, right side for
passenger).
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20. The seat bottom foam, upholstery, rods, and
hog ring clips go together just as on the seatback.
21. Once the clips and rods are in place, the white
plastic channels attach easily to the seat-bottom’s
frame.
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22. After carefully locating the opening for the
power lumbar-support switch, Matt cuts a small
slit in the upholstery and feeds the switch back
into its position against the seat frame. The screws
and faceplate go on next. Do the same to reattach
the side bolster knob.
23. Here’s everything we need to create a thigh
support from top to bottom — new foam and
upholstery, a new plastic plate on which to mount
the pad, and the metal platform we restored earlier.
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24. After placing the foam neatly into the new
upholstery, Matt puts the new black plastic plate
on top and curls the vinyl down onto it. Using his
free hand, he uses an automatic staple gun to
secure the upholstery to the plate.