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5. At the door latch, pry out the bezel. Remove
the bolt underneath. Pry out the plastic pushpins
at the perimeter of the door panel. A specific tool
is available for this. If you use the old screwdriver
method, keep the blades as close together as
possible so the pushpins don’t rip out the cardboard door panel.
6. Remove the speaker in the bottom of the door.
This will be our access hole to the motor.
7. Now let’s check the motor. Disconnect the terminal in the door. It has two conductors.
8. With the ignition switch on, press the “window
down” button, and use the 12-volt tester to check
for voltage at the connection. If it lights, power is
getting to the motor, indicating a good circuit and
a bad motor.
9. These three ⁵/₁₆-inch bolts hold the window
motor in (arrows).
10. Remove the ⁷/₁₆-inch bolt holding the
window channel on the bottom of the door. The
channel will probably need to slide away for
clearance. The motor can now be removed from
the door.
11. We’re pulling off the original water barrier to
access the rest of the door’s innards, as we’re
going to change the door lock servo, too. But if
you’re replacing only the power window motor
and lubing the window channels, the water
barrier can remain in place.
12. The driver’s window gets most of the use and
commonly fails, as ours did. The original is on the
right; NPD’s replacement is on the left. Before
installing, we ran the self-tapping bolts into the
mounting holes to cut the threads and make
installation easier.
13. Slide the new motor into place and bolt it in.
Don’t forget to replace the bolt for the window
guide on the bottom of the door.
14. We’re keeping all of the original connectors,
so we cut the original terminal off the old motor
and connected it to the connectors supplied with
the new motor.
Issue 1 FOX Mustang Magazine 85