Food Traveler Magazine Winter 2013 | Page 141

One Holiday - Five Countries 3 TOP: IRELAND TOURISM AUTHORITY PHOTO CREDIT IRELAND Ireland boasts a long literary tradition, home to James Joyce, William Butler Yeats, Oscar Wilde and others. Wine bars, cafés and pubs have long been the haunt of poets and storytellers. To indulge in this tradition, head to The Brazen Head, Dublin’s oldest pub. It offers storytelling, folklore, fairy tales, traditional Irish music and fare. For instance, legendary Irish stew, merging lamb chunks, potatoes and vegetables. Or Irish fish cakes mated with pureed potatoes. Sick of pub grub? Cheer the season in more elegant surroundings. Chapter One — in the Dublin Writers Museum — has rated a Michelin star since 2007 and been voted best restaurant by the Restaurant Association of Ireland for the last seven years. Indulge in roast pheasant melded with smoked bacon, accompanied by creamed savoy cabbage. Or organic sea trout in a leek and mandarin vinaigrette and roasted hazelnuts. To feel like a resident of Downton Abbey, vacation luxuriously smoked fillet of Connemara organic salmon, mated with pickled vegetables. Or a crème brulee of Irish goat cheese in a port reduction. There’s also a fine wine selection. On fine days, when it’s not “misting,” indulge in golf or horseback riding. Take time to tour the Guiness Storehouse, to see how beer is made and pour your own “Perfect Pint” for sampling. Spiritually, Christmas mass is celebrated in numerous churches in this Catholic country. Most spectacular is St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Ireland’ largest church. The present huge, Gothic building dates from 1220. Besides ogling the stunning stained glass windows and statuary, check out the outside the city, at the stunning 12th century-lakeside Ashford Castle. It’s frequently judged Ireland’s best hotel. The limestone and granite building, sporting crenelated towers and richly carved wall paneling, nevertheless offers 21st century electronics. Its signature eatery is the award-winning George V Restaurant, built by the Guinness family to host dinner parties for the 1906-visit of the Prince of Wales. Emphasis now is on fresh, local ingredients, such as For that special gift, travel to Waterford headquarters and stop at their shop, the world’s largest collection of Waterford Crystal. gravesites of famous people such as author Jonathan Swift, who was dean of the cathedral. Christmas is the cathedral’s busiest time of year for the choir. On Christmas Eve, the Choral Eucharist is sung by the Cathedral Choir and the Bellringers present a performance. Wish to endow yourself with the gift of gab? Kiss the Blarney Stone about five miles from Cork. And if your ancestors emigrated from Ireland, visit the Cobh Heritage Centre in Cork to see the difficulties they underwent. Outside stands the statue of Annie Moore and her two brothers; she was the first immigrant processed at Ellis Island when it officially opened Jan. 1, 1892. WINTER 2013 | FOOD TRAVELER 139