by Mallory Finch
F
ound in every high-end cocktail lounge and neighborhood
haunt, bitters are enjoying a serious revival within the
service industry. Available in nearly every flavor profile imaginable,
bitters conjure up a close association with the cocktail hour with
connotations of luxury, leisure and time to kill. With that image in
mind, understanding the concept of bitters as originally intended
proves difficult. We are inclined to view bitters as a consumable
item, intended to open the palate and complement the beverage,
lacking the knowledge of bitters in their original purpose – as
medicine.
“We are inclined to view bitters
as a consumable item, lacking the
knowledge of bitters in thir original
purpose – as medicine.”
What we recognize today as bitters differs significantly from the
herbal bitters of yore. These concoctions treated a wide array of
ailments, from respiratory complaints to mental fatigue, but their
main purpose was to aid in digestion.
The exact composition of the bitters varied dramatically from
region to region, with respect to availability of plant material –
the species of gentian used in tonic bitters, great yellow gentian
(Gentiana lutea) grows native to south and central Europe, while
species of wild cherry (Prunus spp.) can be found in the Americas,
Asia and Europe. In the same breath, the now-ubiquitous hops
(Humulus lupulus) remained uncultivated in North America until
the early seventeenth century. One might imagine the earliest
American settlers, wishing to recreate their native herbal remedies,
but faced with a daunting landscape of unfamiliar flora. Of course,
the pioneer spirit prevailed.
Regardless of biome or climate, the basic method for making
bitters remained the same: a base alcohol extracted the medicinal
and flavoring properties of various plant materials. Many of the
medicinal plants employed in traditional Western herbalism
possessed an intense bitterness. To lessen the unpleasantness of
consuming such a bitter brew, more agreeable ingredients like citrus
rind and sweetly-scented flowers found their way into the mix.
Though their homeopathic use has been rendered largely obsolete
by the prevalence of Western allopathic medicine, many herbs can
still be readily employed in home infusions and bitters. A list of
notable bitters herbs follows.
fsmomaha.com
The Bitter Truth
Gentian, specifically Great Yellow Gentian (Gentiana lutea)
Native range: Alpine and sub-alpine areas of
central and southern Europe.
Historical herbal uses:
Emmenagogue, antiseptic, digestive
aid.
Plant part used: Root
The granddaddy of all bittering
agents, possessed of an almost
monumental bitterness, gentian
root remains a primary ingredient
in standby brands like Angostura
and Peychaud’s. The plant contains
some of the bitterest compounds
known to natural science. Considered a
fortifying herb for the digestive system, gentian
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