This itinerary offers a thoughtfully curated journey through both history and modernity— showcasing architectural splendor, unique boutique spots, and nightlife— that blends luxurious comforts with Amman’ s genuine, unrefined charm. If you’ re planning a trip to Amman( and you should), Royal Jordanian now flies three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays between Washington and Amman.
MORNING: STAND AMONG THE REMNANTS OF HISTORY
When visiting a destination, I always find it helpful to start at the beginning. In Amman, that means beginning your journey where the city itself started: the Citadel, which sits majestically atop the highest hill in the city at 2,700 feet above sea level. Dating back to the Bronze Age, the Citadel contains several important landmarks that tell the story of Amman’ s rich history.
However, this is not your typical archaeological site. The Citadel is a living record of human civilization, its history stretching back to continuous settlement since the Neolithic era. As you climb Jabal al-Qal’ a, the Temple of Hercules— with its massive Roman columns, each about 32 feet tall— comes into view, serving as a powerful and immediate reminder that you’ re walking where Marcus Aurelius’ s architects once stood. Also at the Citadel is the Umayyad Palace complex, dating from around 730 AD, which features a beautifully crafted domed audience hall that has withstood centuries of earthquakes and invasions. Additionally, travelers can find the ruins of the Byzantine Church, with Corinthian capitals reused from the Temple of Hercules, as well as the Jordan Archaeological Museum, which houses a collection of Bronze Age artifacts and the famous Ain Ghazal Statues.
The panoramic views of Amman’ s honey-colored limestone buildings, punctuated by minarets and the occasional glass-and-steel tower, justify making this the first stop on your itinerary. Pro tip: arrive just after opening at 8 AM to experience the site before tour buses arrive, when the only sounds are birdsong and the distant call to prayer echoing across the valleys.
LATE MORNING: EXPLORE THEATRICAL GRANDEUR
Descend from your high vantage point at the Citadel to downtown Amman’ s landmark, the Roman Theatre. The structure was built during the reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius in the 2nd century AD. This 6,000-seat amphitheater was cleverly carved into the northern hillside to provide shade for spectators from Jordan’ s intense sun. The acoustics are still perfect, and the theater continues to host concerts and cultural events, demonstrating that good design remains timeless. Meanwhile, the nearby Jordan Folklore Museum and Museum of Popular Traditions offer an intriguing contrast to the grandeur of the amphitheater, displaying traditional Bedouin life, detailed costumes, and everyday artifacts that rarely appear in history books.
AFTERNOON: THE ART OF ACQUISITION
For shopping that goes beyond simple souvenir hunting, Rainbow Street in Jabal Amman is undoubtedly the best choice. This bohemian street buzzes with galleries, cafes, and boutiques that feel both effortlessly trendy and welcoming. The Jordan River Foundation Showroom, run under Queen Rania’ s patronage, is housed in a beautifully restored 1930s building and deserves at least an hour— or more— of your time. Here, you’ ll find museum-quality handmade embroideries created by women from Jabal Nadeef, Madaba, and the Jordan Valley. Think exquisite tablecloths, silk pieces, woven baskets, and mosaic artworks that showcase true craftsmanship while supporting community development.
For anyone looking for more contemporary treasures, Nadia Dajani’ s boutique at the Fairmont Hotel showcases unique jewelry and fashions that blend traditional and modern styles. Ola’ s Garden, tucked away near the end of Rainbow Street, features one-of-a-kind handmade jewelry and clothing, including keffiyehs, scarves, art, abayas, and jackets by artist-owner Ola herself. The Soap House on Rainbow Street( also known as Trinitae) is a second-generation family business dating back to the 1930s. It offers a beautifully packaged skincare line crafted with locally sourced ingredients like olive oil, Dead Sea salt, mud, and minerals— far superior to anything you’ ll find in a generic gift shop. And finally, there’ s the Taj Mall for the most dedicated shoppers, filled with a variety of international brands recognizable to travelers from all around the world.
EVENING: EXPLORING AMMAN’ S CULINARY SCENE
As evening falls over Amman, the city’ s culinary scene comes alive, and few places capture its essence as well as Sufra. Located in a bright heritage villa on Rainbow Street, Sufra, a favorite among the Jordanian royal family, offers traditional Levantine dishes in a setting that feels quintessentially Jordanian. Highlights include mansaf, Jordan’ s national dish of lamb cooked in fermented dried yogurt. Many people find it truly exceptional. The meal also features freshly baked bread that comes out of the oven with theatrical timing— perfect for Instagram. For panoramic city views, choose a table on the rooftop terrace.
For a more upscale experience, Fakhreldin is housed in a beautifully restored building that once served as the residence of a Jordanian Prime Minister H. E. Mr. Fawzi Al-Mulki. Ranked eleventh on the list of the Middle East & North Africa’ s( MENA) 50 Best Restaurants, Fakhreldin features a menu of over 100 dishes focused on sophisticated Lebanese cuisine, complemented by an impressive selection of traditional Lebanese spirits. Its charm is heightened by a summer garden with lanterns flickering among jasmine vines, transforming dining into an enchanting evening.
All that said, if you truly want to dine where royalty actually sits— and I mean literally where King Abdullah II and Queen Rania have broken bread alongside tourists and locals— the unfussy, completely unpretentious Hashem Restaurant in downtown Amman is the place for you. Established in 1952, fully vegetarian, and open 24 hours, this modest, cash-only spot has been serving what many consider Jordan’ s best falafel for more than 70 years. Best of all, it costs less than a coffee from your local shop. Bottom line: When Jordan’ s ruler waits in line for vegetarian street food, you know it must be something truly special.
NIGHT: WHERE AMMAN REVEALS ITS SOUL
Amman’ s nightlife might not match Beirut’ s legendary scene, but what the city lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality and elegance. The W Amman’ s three-story Aura nightclub leads the upscale scene with DJs playing international music to a stylish crowd. Meanwhile, the hotel’ s WET Deck rooftop bar offers a more relaxed vibe with craft cocktails, sweeping city views, and a fashionable mix of expat professionals and trendy locals.
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