Zürich
Credit: Rudy Balasko
Zürich
Credit: Rostislavv
panoramic views of the city. If you’re here in winter, many of these
routes turn into thrilling sledding runs, including a two-mile toboggan
run. Winter travelers can also visit the Flumserberg ski area, less than
90 minutes away by train.
SHOP THE TOP DESIGNERS
One could easily spend their whole life savings at the upscale stores that
line Bahnhofstrasse, home to the world’s highest-end designers and
Swiss watch brands. Tucked away from this main street, Storchengasse
is another street teeming with exclusive designer stores. Between
Bahnhofstrasse and Löwenplatz, you’ll find Zürich’s version of Harrod’s,
the century-old department stores, Globus. Stop in the delicatessen
section for lunch to sample all the Swiss cheeses and meats.
GET YOUR FOODIE FIX
Under the 36 stone arches of Im Viadukt, a railway viaduct built
in 1894, are galleries and fashion stores. But the highlight is the
Markthalle, where bakers, farmers, and butchers from around the city
display their fresh, organic produce six days a week. You can find lunch
from a variety of stands, from the cheesemaker to the sushi counter to
the pie shop.
It’s hard not to feel the history of Kaiser’s Reblaube, a wood-paneled
restaurant in the Old Town in a house that dates back to 1260 and was
once home to the great writer and poet, Goethe. Now it’s best known
for its tasty traditional Swiss dishes like Zürcher Geschnetzelte — veal
strips in a creamy sauce with mushrooms, served with rösti (Swiss hash
browns) — or roasted saddle of lamb with figs and glazed carrots.
SATISFY YOUR CHOCOLATE CRAVING
Every local has their favorite chocolatier in town, which they’ll happily
share when asked. Start with sublime Teuscher truffles, especially the
champagne-filled ones, at the elegant Café Felix on Bellevue Square.
Then wander over to Max Chocolatier, beneath that clock face at St.
Peter’s Church, and try not to drool over the large selection of goodies
that include chocolate infused with caramel, port wine, chili, and even
pistachio marzipan. For large slabs of chocolate, perfect for souvenirs,
it’s hard to top Läderach on Bahnhofstrasse.
TAKE A WALK ON THE HIPSTER SIDE
Hop on a tram to Zürich-West, an industrialized section of town
now brimming with art galleries, hipster boutiques, funky bars, and
restaurants beloved by locals. Along the train tracks near the main train
station, in a shipping container tower, find the corporate headquarters
of Freitag, which sells their innovative bags made of truck tarps, inner
tubes, and seat belts. Nearby, find Frau Gerolds Garten, multi-level
beer garden fashioned out of shipping crates. Order beers and grab a
seat at one of the overflowing picnic tables, taking in the ambience.
GLORY IN THE PUBLIC TRANSPORT
The Swiss are known for their punctuality, and its magnificent train
network proves the point to the second daily. Not only will your train
arrive on time, but it will also be clean, comfortable, and fast. Zürich’s
main train station, Hauptbahnhof, is just six miles south of Zürich
Airport and connected by regular, fast trains, getting you downtown
in as little time as 12 minutes. Taxis can take even longer and cost many
times more. Purchasing a Zürich Card may be the smartest financial
move, providing access to all public transport for 24 hours at a relative
bargain. It also offers free or reduced admission to 40 museums and a
discount on the Zürich Old Town Walking Tour.
GETTING THERE
Swiss International Air Lines and United Airlines operate regular non-
stop flights from Dulles International Airport (IAD) to Zürich Airport
(ZRH). The one-way flight takes approximately eight hours.
WINTER 2019/20 33 FLYWASHINGTON.COM