Freitag in Zürich-West
Credit: Meder
ROLLING OUT THE
SWISS WELCOME MAT
IN ZÜRICH
BY STEPHEN JERMANOK
Perhaps it’s the austere sound of
its name — Zürich — or that it’s
the entry point for many in Switzerland,
but visitors new to the country often clamor for
more Grindelwald-esque Alpine villages in the
countryside. But in the rush to leave town, they miss
what makes Switzerland’s largest and wealthiest
city so much more than the banking hub of Europe.
History seeps from every narrow cobblestone alley,
especially in the Old Town, while the serene Limmat
River divides the modern city the like a zipper.
BREATHE IN THE FRESH SWISS AIR
After the long flight, the best way to stretch your legs is along the left
or right bank of Lake Zürich. The tree-lined promenades, a favorite
of locals, will deliver your first vista of the snow-capped peaks. If you
can’t get enough of that view, sign up for the 90-minute cruise and
learn about the various neighborhoods that line the lakefront.
EMBRACE THE SPIRIT OF REFORMATION
In 2019, Switzerland celebrated the 500th anniversary of the German-
Swiss Reformation movement, which greatly impacted and influenced
the history of the country. The massive cathedral, Grossmünster,
which dates back a mind-boggling eight centuries to 1212 and was
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the spot where Pastor Ulrich Zwingli first started the Reformation in
Switzerland, eventually severing ties with Catholicism and the Pope.
Cross Münsterbrücke (Munster Bridge) to the other side of the Limmat
and stop at Zürich’s second significant church, Fraumünster. Nearby,
St. Peter’s Church is home to the largest tower clock face in Europe,
measuring more than 28 feet.
TAP THE ART SCENE
Zürich’s main art museum, Kunsthaus, doesn’t disappoint, with one
of the country’s most important collections on display. While it stems
from the Middle Ages onward, it’s with the 20th-century movements
of Dadaism and surrealism that the museum really shines. Also enjoy
works by Van Gogh, Manet, Picasso, Munch, and the largest public
collection of Swiss sculptor Alberto Giacometti. Another of Zürich’s
artistic treasures is Pavillon Le Corbusier, the last work by the
legendary architect.
Reflect on it all at Cabaret Voltaire, a café drenched in 20th-century
art movements. Indeed, it was among these very tables that Dadaism
first took root during World War I, when intellectual refugees from all
over Europe gathered here to read poems, perform music, and create
art devoted to their anti-war, anti-institution beliefs. For a historical
resume, it’s also hard to beat Café Bar Odeon, whose guest list
includes the likes of Albert Einstein, James Joyce, and Vladimir Lenin.
HIKE THE UETLIBERG
Catch a train up to Zürich’s own peak, the 2851-foot “Uezgi,” as
the locals call it. Once on top, walk along the well-marked trails to