ZÜRICH , SWITZERLAND
THE CITY
The parliament may debate in Bern, but Zürich remains Switzerland’s
capital for everything else. Sitting on the north shore of Lake Zürich
against a backdrop of snow-capped Alps in the distance, one might
argue for beauty, too. The old town adds further evidence, with the
Limmat River winding through gingerbread-like neighborhoods hosting
some of the Europe’s top restaurants, fashion boutiques, art galleries,
and cafes — some still seemingly serving the ghosts of their famous
former patrons: Albert Einstein, Vladimir Lenin, and James Joyce.
Things get trendier in the former industrial districts on the outskirts, as
at Frau Gerolds beer garden, fashioned out of shipping crates, or the
Im Viadukt, a repurposed 19th-century train viaduct housing fashion
boutiques, restaurants, and live music venues beneath 39 stone arches.
T H E M O U N TA I N S
With the Alps in sight, there’s no shortage of slopes in easy striking
distance from Zurich. Little more than an hour’s drive south is Titlis,
the largest ski and snowboard resort in the region and nearly 10,000
feet of elevation. A nine-mile long trail from the top descends 6,000
feet to monastery village of Engelberg at the bottom, where 21 miles
of cross country trails thread the valley. Off-piste (and skis), take a
heart-pounding step across the Titlis Cliff Walk, a suspension bridge
1,600 feet off the ground, or enter the mountain itself, into the Glacier
Grotto, where 5,000 years of ice are illuminated along a 500-foot path.
About the same distance east of Zurich, Flumserberg resort embraces
families, thanks to a bevy of kid-centric activities on and off the 46
trails, most of which are beginner and intermediate. Advanced skiers,
however, can enjoy the nearly 4-mile-long Terza trail, which comes
with exception views of Lake Walen and the imposing Churfirsten
mountains. Two terrain parks welcome snowboarders as well, as does
a two-mile toboggan run. Or you can let teams of husky sled dogs do
all the work, while you ride along the valley.
GETTING THERE
United Airlines offers nonstop service from Washington Dulles
International Airport (IAD) to Zurich Airport (ZRH).
LOCAL TRANSPORT
The Swiss transportation system is as impressive as they come, with a
comprehensive network of train routes to nearly every corner of the
country. Indeed, the polish is so bright, it’s hard to tell the difference
between first and second class. This may actually make a car more of a
hindrance than a help. The transport continues on site, with gondolas
often taxing you up to the mountain tops and a gaggle of local shuttles
to shoulder the gear.
BURLINGTON , VERMONT
THE CITY
With about 20,000 college students and a vibrant activist community,
including former mayor Bernie Sanders, Burlington buzzes loudly for
its relatively diminutive size. Put that all against a backdrop of mighty
Lake Champlain and the Adirondack Mountains to the west, and the
Green Mountains to the east, and you’ve got postcard views at nearly
every turn of the head. The pedestrian-only Church Street Marketplace
in the downtown remains the heart and soul of the city, with all the
cute, quaint boutiques, bars, cafes, restaurants, and theaters that draw
endless streams of tourists from far and wide. The winter chill only
intensifies its coziness, as do the garlands of holiday lights reflecting in
ice and snow.
T H E M O U N TA I N S
An added jolt of electricity comes to the region with the snow, when
four million skiers and snowboarders take to the 19 Alpine and 30
Cross Country resorts across the state. From Burlington, several major
and minor ones are within a 1.5 hour drive. While Smugglers’ Notch in
Jeffersonville racks up awards and praise for its kid-friendly programs,
value for cost, and local ambiance, Jay Peak, in Montgomery, regularly
claims the greatest annual snowfall in the state, with 338 inches in 2017.
But it’s Stowe Mountain Resort that sets the classic New England
Norman Rockwell-like scene, starting with the quaint village — white
church steeple included — at the base of the mountain, and the snowy
peak of Vermont’s largest mountain, Mount Mansfield, looming above.
Along the long, winding mountain road is a nearly endless string of
hotels, restaurants, breweries, and nightclubs to keep Stowe humming
all winter. A yodel away is also the vaunted Trapp Family Lodge, still
operated by the von Trapp family of “Sound of Music” fame.
GETTING THERE
Flying to Burlington from Washington D.C. may be faster than your
daily commute to work, at just over an hour. American Airlines offers
multiple daily nonstop flights from Reagan National Airport (DCA)
to Burlington International Airport (BTV). United Airlines also offers
multiple daily nonstop flights from Washington Dulles International
(IAD) to Burlington International (BTV).
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Once in Burlington, however, a car becomes essential to access to
all of Vermont’s ski resorts, although some local shuttles are
available connecting resorts with hotels in the area. Otherwise, you’ll
have to rent a car, most with winter tires and apply a take-it-easy
driving approach.
Stowe Mountain Resort
FLYWASHINGTON.COM 44 WINTER 2018/19