The volcano-ringed city is full of fascinating places to visit. The most
spectacular is a church that barely looks like anything from the outside,
but don’t be fooled by its exterior, the El Rosario Catholic Church is
one of the most breathtakingly beautiful modern churches on the
planet. El Rosario will astound you, it is located in the Plaza Gerardo
Barrios — San Salvador’s main central plaza — just around the square
from the more traditional Catedral Metropolitana de San Salvador,
originally constructed in the late 1500s (and another must-see stop).
The grubby looking black concrete exterior gives way to a stunning
wall of multicolored stained glass and a breathtaking set of 14 black
wrought-iron sculptures depicting Christ’s Way of the Cross. Ruben
Martinez, the Salvadorian architect and sculptor, designed both the
church and the sc ulptures, a truly transcendent combination.
Over in the cathedral across the square, visit Archbishop Oscar
Romero’s crypt. Romero was assassinated in 1980 by repressive
government forces in power at the time, an event that was the catalyst
for the long civil war within El Salvador. Today he is considered one of
Central America’s most important historical figures and a martyr by the
Catholic Church.
Next, explore some of the fine arts that San Salvador has to offer. Visit
MARTE, the Museum of Art, in the Colonia San Benito neighborhood
where contemporary Salvadorian artists’ works are showcased
in a beautiful setting. Also go to MUNA, the National Museum of
Anthropology in the same area, and to Mayan, Nahuatl, Toltecs and
Pipil to see ancient artifacts of the indigenous peoples who lived in
the area in eons long past. El Arbol de Dios is the don’t miss gallery of
world-famous modern artist Fernando Llort. You’ll recognize the huge
mural on the outer wall. Keep your eyes open and your camera ready
wherever you go in El Salvador, for striking wall murals are almost
everywhere you turn.
When hunger strikes in San Salvador, there are plenty of cuisines
to sample. Inexpensive local “pupuerias” serve the national dish of
pupusas — corn tortillas stuffed with your choice of cheese, shredded
pork, or beans — served with curtido (spicy slaw). There are also upscale
steak and seafood places. No matter what style of food you choose,
be sure to sample El Salvador’s famous coffee, the dark roast was likely
grown on one of the volcanic hills off in the distance.
MARTE Museo de Arte
Credit: Carlos Rodriguez Mata
MARTE Museo de Arte
Credit: Carlos Rodriguez Mata
TAKING IN EL SALVADOR’S NATURAL WONDERS
Considering El Salvador is about the size of Massachusetts (but more
mountainous), getting out into the countryside to see more of the
natural landscapes isn’t very complicated, nor very far from the center
of the city (or the airport). There are beautiful beaches with lovely
hotels and hot surf breaks less than an hour from San Salvador. Visit La
Libertad, a funky surf town that teems with foreigners carrying boards,
looking for one of the legendary Pacific Ocean rides to be found in the
warm, clear waters nearby.
Experiencing the ecological beauties of El Salvador is an exhilarating
part of any trip to this country dedicated to protecting its natural
beauty and biodiversity. Make the thatched-hut Mandala Eco Villas
(near the almost deserted beach Playa el Cocal just outside of La
Libertad) a home base, then range south to be at one with nature.
“
Wander further south along the
coast to the Biosphere Reserve in the
mangrove-lined, deep-blue watered
Jiquilisco Bay, where scientists and
ecologists are capturing, weighing,
tagging and releasing sea turtles.
”
CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
WINTER 2017/18 43 FLYWASHINGTON.COM