WONDER
GET INSPIRED
Sole survivor of the ancient world’s seven wonders, the Great
Pyramid of Giza has astonished travelers for more than 4,500
years. Exploring that towering monument — the world’s tallest
structure for millennia — is a Cairo essential. At the Giza Plateau,
go full explorer by riding a camel around the base of the three main
pyramids; the Great Pyramid is flanked by the Pyramid of Khafre and
the Pyramid of Menkaure. Next, pause at the feet of the mysterious
Sphinx. With the head of a human and a lion’s body, the colossus is
carved from a single, massive piece of limestone. Rich detailing and lattice-work on the sand-colored facade of the
Museum of Islamic Art hint at a trove within, and the landmark
museum delivers with one of the world’s greatest collections.
Treasures from palaces and mosques fill 25 galleries, flaunting the
remarkable breadth of Islamic artwork. Head to the north wing
to follow Cairo’s own art and architecture through chronological
exhibits, then, continue into the south wing for a look at Islamic art
from outside of Egypt. Here, you’ll find wildly decorative calligraphy,
screens, and ceramics by artisans from Istanbul to Iran.
Monumental as they are, these tombs are just a hint of Egypt’s ancient
riches. Peer even deeper into the past at the necropolis of Saqqara,
20 miles south of Cairo, where you’ll find the oldest pyramid on earth.
With chunky steps and a flat roof, the Pyramid of Djoser shows how Not that Cairo’s art scene is stuck in the past — anything but. To
encounter the creative minds of today, visit Ubuntu, a gallery in the
Zamalek neighborhood with an eclectic mix of emerging artists and
established names such as sculptor Halim Yacoub. Rotating, bimonthly
ancient architects worked towards the smooth lines that you saw at
Giza — and there’s even more hidden beneath the sands here. In 2018
a royal tomb, untouched for 4,400 years, was opened to the public,
revealing brightly painted statues, floor-to-ceiling hieroglyphs, and five
shafts whose treasures have yet to be excavated.
SHOP
The maze-like and marvelous Khan el-Khalili bazaar is a knot of colorful
stalls and shops in Islamic Cairo, where merchants have been striking
deals for centuries. There are both treasures and trinkets here, and it’s
worth the trip just to soak in the vendors’ silky-smooth patter as you
wander twisting lanes.
Skip the stuffed camel souvenirs and aim for unique gifts like a leather-
bound travel journal at Abd El Zaher, one of Khan el-Khalili’s historic
shops. The family-owned bookbinders will emboss your purchase with
golden arabesques or your initials. Pause for a cup of freshly squeezed
pomegranate juice from a roadside vendor, then, continue into the
heart of the market to browse hand-woven carpets, delicate blown
glass, and pottery from the Fayoum oasis.
Downtown hustle gives way to tree-shaded streets in Zamalek, a
neighborhood on an island in the middle of the Nile River. This is where
to experience Cairo shopping at its most stylish and rub shoulders with
the city’s creative class. Bring home a bit of their inimitable style by
stocking your wardrobe with sleek kaftans and embroidered handbags
by Egyptian designers at Mounaya Gallery, then head to Azza Fahmy to
check out a gleaming collection of artisan-made jewelry. If not making
the epic journey to the Siwa Oasis in the western desert, the next best
thing is a trip to Siwa Creations, where you can find dreamy, woven
robes that look like they’re straight from Scheherazade’s closet.
FLYWASHINGTON.COM 28 SUMMER 2019
exhibitions bring fresh energy, along with the chance to learn the
who’s who of Egyptian artists like Abdelrahman Elborgy and Eman
Barakat before they get big on the international market.
Just one block away is SafarKhan, a gallery founded by Egyptian
art maven Sherwet Shafei. While you’ll find plenty of young work
here, Shafei’s deep roots in the local art world keep the displayed
work rooted in Cairo’s creative tradition. Before leaving Zamalek,
make a final stop at Al Masar Gallery, where the spotlight shines on
modern and contemporary art. A long list of celebrated artists such
as Sami Aboul Azm, Hazem Taha Hussein, and Ibrahim El Dessouki are
represented on the walls of this gallery, which features beautifully
curated solo exhibitions as well.
SAVOR
Cairo’s café culture means tiny glasses of Arabic coffee, sipping sweet
hibiscus tea, and endless conversation — this is the place to settle
into a corner table and watch the world drift by. Start with
El-Fishawi Café, founded in 1797, inside Khan el-Khalili bazaar.
The brisk waiters have served everyone from Napoleon to Naguib
Mahfouz, a Nobel Prize-winning Egyptian novelist who penned
loving tributes to his city’s coffee shops. Keep up the literary theme
at downtown’s Café Riche, a writers’ haunt since the doors opened
in 1908. Faded portraits of Cairo intellectuals line the walls, adding
to the spot’s dusty charm; time seems to stand still as regulars sip
chilled Sakara Gold beers under lumbering ceiling fans.
For the main event head, cross the Nile River to Giza, where the new
Zaitouna Food Hall gathers the city’s buzziest flavors under a single
roof. Walls are decked with bright murals and greenery, there’s a kids’
play area, and dining options range from Lebanese plates to Egyptian
classics. A highlight is the reimagined Cairene street food at Zaza. This
is the perfect place to try feteer, a layered pastry loaded with butter
and savory fillings, but you can also sample the spicy sausage, sogok,
and taste shewerma roasted over glowing coals.