Even though visions of the majesty of the French Riviera with its unabashed luxury, sun-soaked beaches, and palatial yachts danced vividly at the forefront of my memory upon my arrival, they were no match for the timeless charm of this floating city, built on a lagoon, where wondrous canals and fabled streets opened a window to the glorious history, rich cultural heritage, and architectural treasures of one of the most beguiling cities in the world.
With almost childlike fascination, I set out to explore this gem of a city. Beginning in the heart of Venice with the famed Piazza San Marco( St. Mark’ s Square) and the breathtaking St. Mark’ s Basilica, I continued on to the Rialto Bridge, which I would later experience in an entirely different light on a gondola ride along the magnificent Grand Canal. From there, the venerable Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute( La Salute) beckoned not only because I had seen countless pictures of it in books and magazines, but because its marvelous history and grandiose interiors demanded it.
Next it was off to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection on the Grand Canal in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, which was the former home of the museum’ s namesake, and now houses her personal art collection as well as notable temporary exhibitions and a stunning sculpture garden overlooking the Grand Canal. It is today one of the most important collections of European and North American art from the twentieth century in Italy including works by Rothko, Giacometti, Calder, Picasso, Dali, Mondrian, and Pollock, an absolute must visit for anyone with a modicum of appreciation for the arts.
Finally, after smartening myself up, I headed over to Harry’ s Bar because no grand tour would be complete without a visit to the famed bar that has hosted everyone from European royalty to American royalty, including the likes of Truman Capote, Katherine Hepburn and Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton. As I joined the well-heeled crowd that regularly gathers at the popular Venetian watering hole for a cocktail, I pondered all that I had seen and imagined all that others had witnessed in this miraculous city over the centuries.
Despite all the marvels I experienced, none stood out so much as the palaces and palazzos of Venice that I had encountered along my journey. The grandeur, the ornateness, and the sheer architectural improbability of those extraordinary structures astounded me then and they still astound me today. Though many have evolved since my first visit, others remain unchanged. But all still have the same jawdropping appeal that left my 18-year-old self agog so many years ago.
Take for instance, The Doge’ s Palace. Built in the 14th century as the residence of the Doge, the ruler of Venice, and the seat of power for the former city-state, this iconic palace is at once the city’ s most famous structure and also its finest example of Venetian Gothic architecture. But while its imposing size and intricate architecture are more than sufficiently awe-inspiring, the palace interiors are a masterpiece of opulence, featuring lavish chambers, magnificent council rooms, and a stunning collection of artworks by celebrated artists such as Veronese, Tiepolo, Tintoretto and Tiziano. Of particular note is the breathtaking Golden Staircase, a symbol of the city’ s once immense power and staggering wealth.
Another of the most prestigious late Gothic palaces in Venice, the Ca’ d’ Oro( House of Gold), dates back to the 15th century and, like the famous staircase at The Doge’ s Palace, evidenced its opulence not only by its resplendent façade overlooking the Grand Canal but also with its
FLYWASHINGTON. COM 6 SPRING 2025