Pepe ’ s Storefront
Credit : Pepe ’ s Pizzaria
It ’ s Not Pizza , It ’ s New Haven Style Apizza
BY NEVIN MARTELL
New York has foldable slices golden with grease . Chicago serves deep-dish , its buttery crust filled with chunky tomato sauce and a wealth of cheese . Detroit offers thick rectangles with cheese on the bottom , sauce on top , and crunchy caramelized edges . New Haven , Connecticut ’ s pizzerias put out pies in a league of their own . Known as apizza — pronounced “ ah-beetz — the rounds are thin , but still have flex , proudly sporting char rimming their edges and leopard spotting their bottoms . Here ’ s a look at the Big Three pizzerias — Frank Pepe , Sally ’ s , and Modern — along with one bonus spot worthy of your time , attention , and stomach space .
FRANK PEPE PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA
Since 1925 , the OG pizzeria has been putting out iconic pizzas from its custom-built coal-fired brick oven , measuring an impressive 14 feet by 14 feet and weighing 100,000 pounds . The original tomato pie is a must-try , featuring crushed Italian tomatoes , grated Pecorino Romano , and olive oil ( but no mozzarella ). Another standout : the white pizza dotted with fresh clams , sprinkled with Pecorino Romano , and seasoned with garlic and oregano . Over the decades , the pizzeria has garnered an impressive list of celebrity fans , ranging from Henry Winkler and Paul Giamatti to David Chang and Bobby Flay . It now boasts 17 locations in seven states , spreading the gospel of New Haven apizza nationwide .
SALLY ’ S APIZZA
This Wooster Square institution has served millions of za-aficionados since debuting in 1938 , including celebs such as JFK and Frank Sinatra . Order the classic with a thin layer of tomato sauce and a gentle sprinkle of Parmesan . However , the special , covered in a stained glass of razorthin potato slices along with onions , rosemary , and Parmesan , is well worth indulgence . Be prepared : These are sizeable pies . The small is a medium , the medium is a large , and the large is humungous . And be ready to wait before getting a chance to take a single bite . There ’ s usually a long line , especially at lunch .
MODERN APIZZA
Putting out primo pizzas since 1934 to an ever-growing legion of
devotees , this evergreen hotspot sells up to 1,100 pizzas a day on weekends . Made with cold-fermented dough stretched thin , these rounds come out of the oven beautifully blistered and chaotically sliced , so no wedge is the same shape or size . The must-order classic is slathered with a thick layer of San Marzano tomato sauce and fistfuls of shredded mozzarella melted into a bubbly savannah . A formidable proposition is the Italian Bomb , showcasing a treasury of toppings : bacon , sausage , pepperoni , onions , peppers , mushrooms , and garlic . Wash any pizza down with one of the regularly rotated limited edition beers made by local breweries , another chance to find out why flavor chasers love this region .
ZUPPARDI ’ S APIZZA
Though it isn ’ t one of the Big Three , this fiercely beloved pizzeria is still worthy of a pilgrimage . Founded in 1932 as Salerno ’ s Bakery on Donnelly Place in New Haven , it moved to its current home on Union Avenue in West Haven two years later . Though pizza was a part of early menus , it became the focus in 1947 when it was renamed Zuppardi ’ s Apizza . Though you can ’ t go wrong with a classic pie , the pro move is to order “ The Special ,” a red sauced round topped with mozzarella , mushrooms , and house-made fennel sausage . And don ’ t sleep on the white pizza topped with freshly shucked littleneck clams accented with garlic , which is a fan favorite with regulars .
GETTING THERE
Avelo Airlines offers twice-weekly nonstop flights from Dulles International Airport ( IAD ) to Tweed New Haven Airport ( HVN ).
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