RIYADH
All roads in Saudi Arabia lead to Riyadh— the capital, court, and heart of the kingdom. A mere hundred years ago the“ Queen of the Desert” was a walled, mud-brick village of 27,000 people along a desert trading route, but now it is home to more than 5 million, and includes the country’ s largest hospitals, universities, companies, banks, and more.
Thanks to the intensely hot desert climate, activities tend to take place behind closed doors. It’ s only in the“ winter” months, when temperatures drop to the 70s that locals come out to picnic in public parks, camp in the desert, and rent private chalets complete with swimming pools and playgrounds to vacation with families and friends. Public entertainment is limited in Riyadh but the newly created General Authority for Entertainment has already opened the city’ s first cinema, with more to come.
SEE
Start at the Al Masmak fortress, erected in 1865 and looking every bit cinematic, with its clay and mud-brick watchtowers and thick walls. It’ s here that the history of modern Saudi Arabia began, when leader, Ibn Saud, famously captured it in 1902. Exhibitions and video presentations inside tell the story, as well as display vintage weapons, photography, and other traditional objects.
Fast forward to the 21st century at Kingdom Centre, a glistening, glass two-towered skyscraper rising 992 feet in the middle of the city. Home to a spectacular luxury shopping mall and the Four Seasons Hotel, it’ s most famous for the stunning Skybridge on the 99th floor, which connects the two towers of the building and offers sweeping views of the city.
King Abdullah Park may sizzle during the day but by evening, particularly in the cooler months, the surprisingly lush and green space makes for a popular evening stroll. The highlight and main attraction is the huge“ dancing fountain,” which features a colorful laser light show.
PLAY
In the city that is home to the king, it’ s fitting that the“ game of kings,”( golf) is so easily accessed. Several courses and clubs are within a half hour’ s drive of the city, including Riyadh Golf Course, an official Par-72 championship course. Forty-five miles southwest of Riyadh, in the picturesque Tawfiq Valley, find Dirab Golf & Country Club. The 18 holes are just the start of the fun here, where you will also find horseback riding, tennis courts, a swimming pool, and clubhouse restaurant.
The desert dunes surrounding the city welcome ATVs and four-wheel drive cars for“ dune bashing,” which essentially means putting the pedal to the medal while charging up and down the dunes. Don’ t try on your own, however, as there is the danger of rolling the car over or getting stuck— always best to join a tour group or outfitter. For extra adrenalin, bring a snowboard for“ sand surfing.”
SHOP
Few places in the world can match the majesty of Riyadh’ s super sleek modern shopping malls, which essentially serve as community centers. The queen of them all is the Al Nakheel Mall, home to more than
200 shops of most major world brands, dozens of restaurants, and a 20,000 square-foot play park for kids.
For a more traditional experience, head to the Deerah Souq bazaar just behind Masmak Fort. For souvenir hunters, this is the ideal spot to find scarfs, shawls, carpets, lanterns, scented oils, gold, spices, and much more. Don’ t accept any price on face value— haggling isn’ t just welcome, it’ s expected.
JEDDAH
If Riyadh is the center of law and order, Jeddah is the vacation hub where Saudis cut loose. The promenades along the Red Sea— especially the“ Jeddah Corniche”— see far more foot traffic than any boulevard in Riyadh. With greater tolerance comes more options for entertainment, including hookah cafes, live music, and amusement parks. Beaches, both public and private, provide optimal conditions for snorkeling and diving, and some even allow bikinis.
As Jeddah is only 55 miles from Mecca, and has the nearest major airport, it is more greatly affected during the annual Hajj pilgrimage, which lasts around two months and attracts about two million people from all over the world. In fact, the airport has a five million squarefoot Hajj Terminal, which can handle 80,000 arrivals during that time.
FLYWASHINGTON. COM 40 AUTUMN 2018