LOMÉ
TRADITION AT THE EDGE OF THE GULF
Stretching from the Gulf of Guinea north into the West African interior, Togo brings together dozens of ethnic groups, languages, and traditions within its narrow borders. Its capital, Lomé, sits at the crossroads of many of those influences with nonstop flights from Washington Dulles on Ethiopian Airlines. Lomé comes alive in bolts of brilliantly patterned cloth, fishing boats pulled onto the sand, and spiritual practices woven into everyday life.
At Grand Marché, that life comes at you fast.
THE WOMEN WHO MADE THE MARKET
At Lomé’ s Grand Marché, known locally as Assigamé, commerce has its own soundtrack. Vendors call out in French, Ewe and other local languages while shoppers negotiate over produce, spices, handicrafts and stacks of brilliantly patterned fabric. Bargaining is part of the rhythm, particularly around the textile stalls that have helped make the market an important center of trade in West Africa.
The fabrics also tell a larger story about Lomé. Beginning in the mid-20th century, a group of Togolese women built fortunes trading colorful wax-print textiles. Their business savvy and success earned them the nickname Nana Benz—“ Nana” as a term of respect and“ Benz” for the Mercedes-Benz automobiles that became symbols of their prosperity.
Lomé
Credit: Gloria Castro
But the cars were only the flashiest evidence of their influence. These entrepreneurs developed trading networks stretching across West Africa and helped establish Lomé as a regional textile center. In doing so, they demonstrated the economic power women could wield in a largely male-dominated business world.
Lomé
Credit: Gloria Castro
FLYWASHINGTON. COM 22 AUTUMN / WINTER 2026