Fine Food Digest Volum 16 Issue 9 | Page 3
opinion
What’s new this month:
T
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shoppers will also be tempted by the
hose clever Germans (I don’t
kind of Continental treats and novelty
mean Volkswagen executives,
sweets that would otherwise take
obvs) are at it again. While
them into the independent deli.
many of us were tracking what
It just piles more pressure on
Waitrose and M&S were up to this
specialist shops to find a point of
Christmas, it seems Aldi and Lidl
difference, and that will centre on two
may put the squeeze on delis and
familiar themes: product range and
farm shops too, this time from the
in-store experience.
lower reaches of the market.
As importer-distributor Empire
As we report on p4, discounters
Bespoke Foods told us, indies need
are doing an annoyingly good job
to drill deep with lines like lebkuchen,
with some of the deli’s festive staples
identifying superior versions the
– smoked salmon, gingerbread,
supermarkets won’t touch. If Aldi or
lebkuchen and so on – and at price to
Lidl are price-promoting, they won’t be
trounce all-comers.
highlighting the fact that better quality
Given that gingerbread houses,
options are available. Independents,
novelty biscuits and chocolates are
on the other hand, are perfectly
something of a German speciality,
placed not just to
their presence in
flag up superior
Aldi and Lidl isn’t
surprising.
Discounters are doing products but to
What has
an annoyingly good job offer comparative
and
changed is the
with some of the deli’s tastings
actually talk to
presence of so
customers. I can’t
many middle-class festive staples
remember a lot
consumers in those,
of friendly sales patter on the few
as a rather theatrical ex-colleague used
occasions I’ve ventured into Lidl.
to put it, down-marché stores.
Communication is key. It’s no
Natural-born Waitrose devotees
good having a better class of product
have inverted their snobbery and
if you don’t let shoppers know it’s
descended on the discounters in
better. The best indies I visit these
droves. The risk being that while
days all have really good signage that
buying those “amaaaazingly good
suggests they are enthusiasts for, and
value” wines, meats and Christmas
understand, what they stock.
turkeys (and even I
And that feeds into the in-store
might grab a bottle
experience. I’ve just interviewed Mark
of Aldi’s Great
Handley of London Farmers’ Markets,
Taste Top 50 Glen
which runs open-air markets across
Marnoch single
the Capital, for next month’s FFD.
malt, at half the
He told me one reason markets still
price of a branded
appeal is “the personal side – dealing
Islay), wellwith a real person, not an automated
heeled
checkout.”
Indies and their staff offer the
same huge benefit. They need to think
about how they can make the best of
it as December looms.
.
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MICK WHITWORTH
Editor
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