Anshu Arora
Anshu Arora
MADE IN INDIA Lakme Fashion Week
Glamour of Lambani Lore
The Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra was set up in 1984 with 12 local Lambani women with the objective of encouraging the revival of indigenous crafts. It also ensured a better life for the people who make them and helped them to find new markets and make the crafts more relevant to modern tastes and work towards a sustainable production process. Today, it works with about 500 artisans who spin their own yarn, weave their own khadi fabric, print / dye in natural dyes, embroider and stitch in the same facility.
Bringing to the forefront the renaissance of crafts, the Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra has created an avenue to develop the skills of 500 craftswomen who were able to market their creations and make a living with a regular income. An additional 100 are being trained to enable them to lead a comfortable life. Artisans are paid handsome wages along with various benefits such as subsidised ration, bonus, provident fund, free medical facilities and scholarships for children’ s education. Sandur has been associated with Craftmark since 2006.
The connection here was made by Anshu Arora. Known for her trendy and funky treatment of garments, the line was a great combination of the crafts of artisans and the trendy shapes of modern womenswear. Taking inspiration from the artisans amazing geometric pattern techniques, the designer created a mélange of unconventional designs.“ The Lambanis are a Banjara community, whose embroidery is very much a part of their life; it was and is primarily used to embroider their own clothes. With time of course it has also become an income generation activity, where the embroidery slipped easily into products like bags / home products and clothing, to suit current markets. At the time of collaboration, I noticed their amazing geometric pattern techniques used for their own choli and skirt had sort of fallen by the wayside. Here we explored and pushed possibilities within their pattern cutting language to create shapes, which are based in this style with a sense of fun and abandonment,” explained Anshu.
The blouses, tops, dresses, and pants were the ideal base for the work done by the women of Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra. The unique technique of measuring with hands and forearms but not measuring tapes, was mesmerisingly embroidered on a black double-layered silhouette. The garments shimmered with old mica mirrors and metal bits, which were the basis of the Lambani embellishments. Tassels and embroidered anklets added onto the charm of the ensembles making them trendy and chic.
The dyeing facilities at the centre were utilised by Anshu while the embroidery was created with master craftsperson Shantabai. Horizontal pastel rows were dappled with mirror work and a black embroidery yoke for a smock. A simple black Lambani blouse looked great with a slim skirt, while tiny 3D bits highlighted the pretty rear yokes. Keeping the designs vey rustic, the tunic skirts, strappy tent dresses were ideal creations that brought the craft to the forefront.
142 | FIBRE2FASHION NOVEMBER 2017