from his efforts; he wants to go to exhibitions.
“We enjoy when we put our heart into it. I believe I
can do good designs,” he says. Shamji put theory
into practice, dyeing the colour wheel. “We wove
guessing the effect. But if we do by scheme it will
be good.”
Shamji learnt about costing and value. “If a plain
weave shawl is ₹1,700 in Ahmedabad, I think I can
do something.” From the Spring-Summer 2018 LA
Colours Trend forecast, he selected ‘Regal Safari’.
He visited Bhuj for inspiration, and named his
theme ‘Rajvadi That’ or ‘Regal Pride’. From the Spring-Summer 2018 LA Colours Trend
forecast, he selected ‘Casa Amarelo’ and named his
theme ‘Journey of Nature’. Vahab learnt finishing
techniques, and worked with Bhumika. “I didn’t
know what a garment was! With co-design we share
ideas and learn.”
A slightly different story comes from Zaeem
Mustak Ahmad Khatri, whose grandfather
owned a bandhani and fabric business in
Mandvi. Zaeem’s father was educated, and
became an officer in the Gramin Bank.
His uncle continued the business, making
traditional bandhani for the local market.
After graduating in 2012, Zaeem worked as an
engineer for four years; first at a petro-chemical
company in Bhachau, and then at a bromine
company in the Rann. When Zaeem lived in
Nakhtrana, he didn’t like either the location or
the long hours. In February 2016, he left his job
father grew up with Bandhani. At 14, he started
napthol bandhani in cotton as labour work for
others. Two years later, he went to Mumbai and did
carpentry for several years. He returned to Kutch,
married, and in 2006 started his own bandhani
company, making gaji silk and cotton satin dress
materials, saris, and dupattas. He still does the
pattern, white and yellow dots, and sells without
dyeing the background colour to local shops, while
he continues his carpentry business on the side.
Vahab’s father wanted him to be independent.
Vahab is the elder of two brothers.
Since the eleventh standard, he has learnt
bandhani from his father and a friend. Vahab wanted
to come to SKV, but his father wanted him to study.
He did the first semester of B Com, sharing his time
between college and dyeing, which he liked more.
Now, he is experimenting with his own work. “A good
artisan knows and teaches others and is not afraid
of competition,” he says. He sees a bright future for
bandhani if artisans keep the tradition and innovate.
“We should preserve our tradition,” he says.
Vidya
weaver. They belonged to Vadva Hothi, and wove
plain white cloth for Rabaris and Ahirs. In 1995,
members of their community had an altercation
with Rajputs in the village and they moved to
Bhujodi. Shamji’s father began doing his own
work, and selling to Khatris who had shops
in Anjar. At the time of the 2001 earthquake,
they were settled but lost everything; so they
began working for Vishramji. Shamji learned
weaving when he was in the seventh standard,
by watching his father; he would sit at the loom
during the weavers’ lunch break. After the
earthquake, he left school and began to weave
full time. After working for Vishramji for 11 years,
he wanted to create something new. He put up
another loom, and worked overtime. He gave
Nanji 100 stoles, which were a sell-out.
“Weaving is good work,” Shamji says. “You do
it at home. You can’t do it alone—only if you have
good family relations. Powerloom is fast but not
creative; handloom lasts. It is so old; I believe it
will go on into the future.” Shamji wants to grow
The Bandhej Graduates
The grandfather of Abdul Vahab Haiderali Khatri
dyed dhabla and khathi in Nirona, and sold them
to Maldharis in Khavda and Banni. In 1972, he
came to Bhuj and did napthol dyeing and washing.
Slowly he started a Bandhani business. Vahab’s
124 | FIBRE 2 FASHION NOVEMBER 2017