Describe your process when starting a new collection.
When I’m about to design a collection, I always start collecting information and inspiration, and to be honest it always seems random until I print it out or set it before me visually. Then it falls into groups, styles and silhouettes. Then it just goes on a journey, and a story begins to unfold as I go deeper and look in depth at all aspects, listen to music, watch movies, think about seams, details, color, textures etcetera. Then I design details, shapes, moods and I start grouping them together. Then I draw and redraw until it starts to flow. Then I amend and start to put them in sequential order, and suddenly it all starts to make sense.
You’re expanding into menswear—what excites you most about designing for men?
I've always loved menswear ... women’s wear was always just because I liked making pretty dresses and corsets. So, designing menswear lets me use all my experience in menswear tailoring plus the fitting and fabrication of womenswear. Women’s wear lets your hand move a lot more freely and with more ease in style lines. I draw mainly from military and old-fashioned gentlemen's tailoring books, mixed with Asian aesthetics. I love the kimono and the way they construct or deconstruct garments.
Menswear has come a long way since the 2000’s so it's more fluid, but I still like the orderliness and the somewhat rigid rules that it employs.
Kim Jones, when he was at Dior men, for me was everything. He gave us such beautiful menswear, wearable and functionality with just the right amount of drama. I loved the fact that he referenced looks from Dior’s women's archives.