F rom the night Bellini opened its doors , its eager crowd settled into their seats like Al Hirschfeld ’ s “ Algonquin Round Table .” On any given evening , the most recognizable figures in Providence congregate in the restaurant : the newly appointed United States Secretary of Commerce , local real estate magnates and their lawyers , equity officers breaking bread and , at the center of it all , Joe Paolino Jr . holding court and offering embraces . It ’ s a social networking hub , dressed in mid-century decor that doesn ’ t hearken back as much as put you smackdab in the middle of Betty Draper ’ s big night out . Everyone is buying everyone a round of drinks and if you don ’ t find a worthy recipient in fifteen minutes flat , hang around long enough and everyone will become a close friend .
The backdrop to all this schmoozing is a subdued palate — cream colored upholstery with hints of pink — but everything is dominated by wood walls and tables so heavily shellacked that they gleam like polished marble . Appearance is everything here : in the space , on the plate and to the staff who parade out in white jackets and black bowties or — in the case of management — slink gracefully around the dining room in Italian suits fitted to their slim frames and pegged several inches above the ankle .
But the aesthetic perimeter reaches outside the doors of the restaurant , which is housed inside Paolino ’ s Beatrice hotel .
A homage to his mother , who smiles broadly from a mosaic portrait in the lobby , the entire project is imbued with female energy . Decor may be subdued and sleek but the accessories are central : Intricate crystal chandeliers , gilded side tables and jewel-toned velvet seats assert that opulence is best served in small doses . And it ’ s clear that the Cipriani-owned Bellini agrees . Known for its 1940s namesake cocktail , the restaurant bottles its own peach puree and the pink-hued juice adds a splash of vibrancy to what is otherwise a deeply traditional menu .
Juxtaposed with highly polished surfaces , the rustic dinner plates assert the presence of an Italian mother intent on gathering family around the table . The frothy fruit cocktails eventually give way to bottles ( and bottles ) of Chianti , and while there are highly composed dishes , pasta is still the essence of this maternal love letter . Housemade pappardelle in creamy tomato sauce ($ 21 ) couldn ’ t be any simpler and it still might be the best dish on the menu , a delicate but full-throated ode to the countryside . In fact , every pasta dish is worth fawning over and when they arrive — usually as the primo — each small city of people , at each minute metropolis , goes silent for the time it takes to finish a plate of cacio e pepe ($ 21 ) or lasagna Bolognese ($ 26 ).
As soon as you grow accustomed to Bellini ’ s bucolic side , however , it swivels back to a more urbane approach . Crudo tastings ($ 24 ) are artfully presented in
BELLINI
50 Westminster St ., Providence , 331-4050 , bellinirestaurant . com .
Open daily for lunch and dinner . Wheelchair accessible . Valet parking .
CUISINE Modern Italian .
CAPACITY A cool hundred .
VIBE Jackie Kennedy and Jackie O collide .
PRICES Appetizers and shared plates $ 16 –$ 30 ; pastas $ 21 – 28 ; entrees $ 26 –$ 41 ; dessert $ 14 .
KAREN ’ S PICKS Steak tartar , any kind of pasta , roasted fish . Take note : Eating should commence only after cocktail hour .
RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l FEBRUARY 2022 97