GET A TASTE OF PORTUGAL , WITHOUT THE PLANE TICKET , AT THESE LOCAL BAKERIES .
Rhode Island has a large Portuguese population , with enclaves in Pawtucket , East Providence , Central Falls and just across the state line in Fall River . And with this immigrant population comes their talent for making bread and baked goods . Walk into any Portuguese ( or Azorean ) bakery in Rhode Island for canary yellow custards glistening with carmelized sugar char , sugar-dusted doughnuts with a hint of lemon , and all kinds of sweet and savory bread rolls just begging to be slathered in butter . Here , we break down a few of these treats that are worth their weight in flour , butter and sugar .
❶ Sweet Bread
Amaral ’ s Fish and Chips is known for its sweet bread , derived from a family recipe passed down generations . They make about seventy mounds each week throughout the year , Wednesday through Friday , and production ramps up around Easter when they turn out about 500 that are available that week , Monday through Saturday . Pre-orders are requested . 4 Redmond St ., Warren , 247-0675 , amaralsfishandchips . com
❷ Bolos Levedos
A hefty , puck-like take on an English muffin , bolos levedos ( which translates to “ risen bread ”) are a staple in many Portuguese-American bakeries . They have a finer crumb , like the ones from Taunton Avenue Bakery , best served toasted with a smear of butter and jam . 217 Taunton Ave ., East Providence , 434-3450 , tauntonavebakery . com
❸ Papo Secos
A quintessential Portuguese roll , papo secos translates to “ dry mouth .” Crusty on the outside and soft inside , papo secos are traditionally served with soup and used to make bifana sandwiches : piled with thinly sliced pork cooked in a white wine , garlic and paprika sauce . They are equally delicious split and stuffed with freshly torched chourico ( a method called “ a bombeiro ” or “ firefighter ” style ). Find some crusty examples at Lusitania Bakery , a shop tucked away in a strip mall in Central Falls . 312 Barton St ., Pawtucket , 725-1435
❹ Malasadas
Hailing from the Azorean island of São Miguel , malasadas are large flat doughnuts ( similar to your country fair ’ s fried dough ). Made with the addition of egg , light lemon zest and tossed in sugar , the term “ malasada ” roughly means “ badly made ,” in reference to the lumpy , non-uniform shape . Find them at local Catholic parishes — most likely freshly made by experienced avós ( Portuguese grandmothers ) — as well as at Ma ’ s Donuts . 78 West Main Rd ., Middletown , 841-5750 , masdonuts . com
❺ Pastéis de Nata
Portuguese egg tarts are known as pastéis de nata , or cream pastries made with puff pastry and an eggy custard filling with a signature caramelized surface . Pick up a box from Morning Star Bakery in East Providence or Silver Star Bakery ( pictured ) in Providence and you ’ ll be transported back to “ the homeland .” Morning Star Bakery , 1106 South Broadway , East Providence , 473-0719 , morning starbakery . com ; Silver Star Bakery , 150 Ives St ., Providence , 421-8013 , silverstarbakery . com
Broa de Milho ( not shown ) Rather than American-style cornbread , which is often sweet , yellow and crumbly , this Portuguese version tastes more like soda bread with a crusty exterior and pale , fine-crumb . Cut and toast a thick slice , then slather it with a layer of Azorean butter . Pick some up ( and Azorean butter ) at Portugalia
Marketplace . 489 Bedford St ., Fall River , Mass ., 679-9307 , portugalia marketplace . com – Grace Kelly
Travel Tip :
Portugalia Marketplace
Portugalia also procures cheeses , imported goods , wines and olive oils that you can only get by going to Portugal or the Azores . Instead of stuffing our suitcases with items to bring home from our travels , food-lovers and oenophiles drive to “ the Riv ” and stock up . There ’ s an on-site Panaderia that bakes fresh bread and papo secos ( Portuguese rolls ), and you can also find desserts like pastéis de nata and Portuguese biscuit cookies ( kids love them !) from other area bakeries in a separate aisle across from the sprawling wine section . Pick up an aged port to pair with dessert . -J. C . �
52 RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l FEBRUARY 2022