PHOTOGRAPH : GETTY IMAGES / GAJUS .
Seven Stars Bakery
For two decades , Seven Stars has produced award-winning artisan breads using natural sourdough starters . Each loaf benefits from extended fermentation ( up to three days ) and house-milled flour to produce a signature chew and complex flavors . While you can ’ t go wrong with a classic baguette or sourdough loaf , give the new-ish sesame spelt a try . This ancient grain has a slightly sweet , nutty flavor and makes a great vehicle for PB and J or simply toasted with butter . Five locations in Providence , East Providence and Cranston , 521-2200 , sevenstarsbakery . com
Buono ’ s
The signature red , white and green awning at Buono ’ s announces that this bakery is serious about Italy . With a history that goes back nearly a century , Buono ’ s prides itself on marrying old world methods combined with modern technology . All loaves are baked on-site at Buono ’ s two locations , which feature
❤ ovens , mixers and racks imported from Italy . Loaves include classic split and multigrain , but we love the Sicilian , which is a match made in heaven with Sunday gravy . 559 Hartford Ave ., Providence , 421-4554 ; 569 Reservoir Ave ., Cranston , 467-6000 , buonos italianbakery . com
Provencal Bakery and Cafe
Take a trip to the South of France without leaving the state . Provencal Bakery serves up traditional European artisan breads using locally sourced ingredients from its shop on Aquidneck Island . Crusty baguettes , whole wheat , country , sourdough , cranberry pecan bread and Italian are available daily , but be sure to check out the specials , like rye on Wednesdays . 750 Aquidneck Ave ., Middletown , 845-9313 , provencal bakery . com
Oberlin
Oberlin ’ s breads all hail from chefowner Ben Sukle ’ s decade-old sourdough starter known as “ mom .”
Sourdough Love Letter
ONE WRITER SHARES HER TRIBUTE TO HER STARTER .
Dear friend :
I ’ ve never given you a name , but perhaps ours is the type of relationship that transcends names and labels .
I remember the day I brought you home . Chef Ben Sukle sent me a message , “ Do you want some sourdough starter ?” Giddy , I bound to my car and retrieved you from the now-closed birch restaurant . You looked so fetching in your quart deli container , gloriously bubbly and teeming with life . Ben sent you with a feeding schedule and a recipe for multigrain bread . I felt some trepidation at the responsibility of nurturing a living being due to my history with houseplants , but Ben assured me you were resilient .
You ’ re nearly eight now and you ’ ve survived . Remember that time I went away for two weeks and the person who was supposed to take care of you neglected an item on the fourteen-item checklist ? He fed you and then left you on top of the fridge for ten days . You had nearly fermented into alcohol by the time I returned . Yikes . But together we restored you with regular feedings and time on a heating pad . You went on to produce gorgeous loaves that we shared with friends and neighbors . Even your discard has value — crackers , pancakes , waffles , biscuits : so much carb-y goodness . You ’ ve enabled bakers in Texas , California and Hawaii . There are bits of you growing in kitchens all across the country . Friend , I want — no , I knead — to let you know how much I appreciate you and look forward to more baking adventures together .
Sour4Life , Jamie Samons
The sourdough country loaf , which also serves as the base for Oberlin ’ s excellent brandade , carries a hint of local honey and sea salt and offers great chew , but don ’ t miss the papo secos . These Portuguese rolls have a crispy exterior that gives way to a light and airy middle , making them just the upgrade your sandwich game needs . 186 Union St ., Providence , 588-8755 , oberlinrestaurant . com
Wright ’ s Dairy Farm
Although the excellent milk , ice cream and cheese may be the initial draw to this fifth-generation family dairy farm , don ’ t sleep on the bread . In addition to an impressive array of sweet offerings , Wright ’ s breads include comforting classics such as farmstead white and cinnamon raisin . The snowflake rolls ( weekends only ) have just the perfect amount of squish for slathering with butter or sopping up gravy . 200 Woonsocket Hill Rd ., North Smithfield , 767-3014 , wrightsdairy farm . com – Jamie Samons
Web Extra : Get the writer ’ s recipe for sourdough at rimonthly . com / sourdough .
46 RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l FEBRUARY 2022