February 2020 Issue Apparel February 2020 issue | Page 74

FEATURE Let’s talk about cellulosic fibres. Scientifically deemed regenerated, these fibres are generally derived from wood pulp, and include modal fibres and those that are created by Liva and Tencel. However, the fact that they are derived from a renewable resource such as wood makes them semi-synthetic and eco-friendly (they are not petroleum-based like polyester.) As the rule of thumb goes, if the fibre is derived through pulping, it is considered cellulosic. Thus, this also includes bamboo and pineapple if they are pulped to extract fibre. Liva from Birla Cellulose is a new- age fibre, which is extracted from wood pulp; it is fluid, has a great fall, and is considered natural as wood is a renewable resource. More importantly, Liva fibres can also be blended with other man- made fibres such as viscose, modal, and cotton to make fashionable, experimental fabrics. It thus offers to designers a host of combinations to experiment with. The success of modal—derived from beech trees—in India is well-known. It is 66 I APPAREL I February 2020 worth mentioning that modal is now being used by kalamkari artists and ajrakh workers (both use vegetable or natural colours for dyeing). Recycled polyester yarns or recycled cotton fibres are all examples of what good blending can achieve. Additionally, lotus, nettle, and banana (among many others) are also used to make natural yarns. This has been practised traditionally over centuries. BLENDING TECHNIQUES Another type of blending that is being looked at is the one that happens at the fabric-weaving stage, when a pure yarn (of cotton or silk) is used in the warp and a yarn of a different composition is used in the weft—the resultant fabric possesses characteristics of both the yarns. This is more evident in the handloom sector, where weavers who work with designers experiment with a host of yarns in the warp and weft, border, and so on. Examples include jute with cotton, jute with silk, a cotton sari with a jute border, or blends of ghicha, eri, tussar, and matka silks. One of the many yarns that are increasingly gaining popularity is linen. In India, most linen is imported and one of the biggest players in the field is the Aditya Birla Group. The biggest advantage with linen is that it can be blended easily with cotton, viscose, silk, and a range of other yarns. The linen-cotton saris of Nalli stand out for their soft finish and the sheer diversity in colours. Linen handloom saris have proved to be a winner and weavers from states like West Bengal are experimenting with various versions of the same. What really stands out with respect to fabric- blending is that the end product has properties that are very different from the source fibres. For instance, cotton, which does not crush, and silk, which does not crease, a spectrum of sweat- absorbing fabrics, fabrics with elasticity, and those that have great drapeability offer immense possibilities and opportunities to textile designers to reinvent and innovate. THE SUCCESS OF MODAL— DERIVED FROM BEECH TREES— IN INDIA IS WELL-KNOWN.