February 2020 Issue Apparel February 2020 issue | Page 62

FEATURE
“WHILE CREATING MOTIFS, IT IS
OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE THAT
DESIGNERS KEEP IN MIND THE
MEANING AND SANCTITY OF
EACH SYMBOL.”
sources—such as grey from eucalyptus leaves,
shades of blue (that range from pale white to
almost black) from indigo, beige and browns from
tea leaves, pink from onion peels, yellow from
turmeric, and many more. The tones and shades
procured from natural components play an
important role in making the garment stand out.
MOTIFS: A FANTASTIC RESOURCE
Ever since the ancient times, artisans have
decorated textiles with motifs, most of which
have a deep cultural meaning; such textiles are
akin to pictorial canvases of traditions and cultural
beliefs, designed beautifully. A range of motifs
can be found interspersed with textiles, such as
animals, birds, fish and other creatures; foliage,
flowers, fruits, sacred seeds; the sun, moon and
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February 2020
stars, the tree of life, food imagery including the
mango motif, which has evolved into what is now
known as paisley worldwide; and elements from
architecture, mainly temple superstructures such
as gopura and jali or fretted screens.
While creating motifs, it is of utmost importance
that designers keep in mind the meaning and
sanctity of each symbol, their original context and
the nuances of the technique the motifs were
originally worked with.
PITFALLS OF TRENDS: THE INDIAN
CONTEXT
Given the variety of weaves, colours, surface-
design techniques, and the enduring appeal
of traditional Indian garments (as well as the
traditional association of specific garments or
colours with specific occasions), there is an
observation that trends may be unsuitable and
irrelevant in the Indian context.
“Subscribing to trends or a particular textile
that is said to be ‘in vogue’ for a year is a
disservice that we do to our artisans and crafts.
For instance, if for a year, a particular textile
such as patola is looked at as trendy, there is a
sudden demand for it. An authentic patola takes
a minimum of six months to be woven. The
increase in demand means that the quality of the
textile is under threat since replicas are made on
power looms. There are many textile techniques
that suffer in this manner,” Asif says.
He believes that it is best if we patronise
all textile techniques or those that appeal to
our aesthetics as an intrinsic part of our textile
heritage, instead of getting caught up in making
fashion statements using a particular textile
technique in a particular calendar year. This, it
is believed, will serve a larger purpose in further
foregrounding the rich legacy of Indian textiles.