February 2020 Issue Apparel February 2020 issue | Page 115

DELIGH DELIGHTFUL DETAILING While the Whil th silhouette of the lehenga may remain traditional at times, it is the detailing ng that makes a difference when it comes to new-age offerings. Popular forms of pleating, pintucking, rouching, ruffles, frills, s, and flounces are seen in not only lehengas as but also dupattas. Asymmetry is another feature that has been a calling card, along g with layers, tiers, and cascades. Peplums s are the chosen silhouette for blouses, while hile flared, bias-cut forms are seen the most in n lehengas. In the last decade, in addition to the sleeves and lehengas, trains of fabric, , too, have proved to be considerably popular. Q APPAREL Zardozi, too, oo, is the mainstay of bridal couture, along with resham, zari, i b beading, sequins, h di i and d crystal-work. Surface ornamentation is achieved with ribbons, smocking, cording, appliqués, and raffia embellishments. Designers Rimple and Harpreet Narula, Reynu Taandon, Pallavi Jaikishan, and Sulakshana Monga concentrate on intricate embroidery, while Manish Arora works with his characteristic abstract, dazzling neon motifs for bridal skirts. Other popular works such as aari, dabka, mukaish, tilla, kasuti, badla, phulkari, couching stitch, mirror-work, cutwork, cross stitch, pitta, and sujini are used to create motifs that range from flora and fauna to architecture and geometry. FASHION SPEAK I February 2020 I 107