EXTOL EATS
Hinkle’s Sandwich Shop
vs. Shipley’s Tavern
And the winner is…everyone
BY D. TODD APPLEGATE
PHOTOS BY CHRISTIAN WATSON
The latest Extol food excursion took me to two
iconic establishments in Madison that you simply
must try: Hinkle’s Sandwich Shop and Shipley’s
Tavern.
Of the two, Hinkle’s is more well known to
outsiders, but both are well known to locals. I’ve
been to Hinkle’s many times over the years and, in
fact, it was considered another food group during
my college years at Hanover. If you like slider-type
burgers at all, or old-school diners, you will love
Hinkle’s as well.
But what about Shipley’s Tavern?
Shipley’s is a pub in downtown Madison, but
that’s about all I knew about it. Ironically, and
unrelated to this review, a few weeks back, I spoke
with a trusted fellow foodie who was born and
raised in Madison, and brought up Hinkle’s and
cheeseburgers. “So, you would pick a Hinkle’s
cheeseburger over a Shipley’s cheeseburger?”
he asked, his choice (competitiveness?) evident
in his tone.
With that in mind, I decided to focus on the
obvious: Who has the best cheeseburger.
Hinkle’s and Shipley’s both serve up good eats
and are just around the block from each other.
Hinkle’s is quintessential diner food done
right since 1933 when Winfred Hinkle opened his
restaurant at 204 West Main St., the same location
you find it today. Not fancy and largely unchanged,
but with a personality, a following and community
presence all its own. Hinkle’s started out as an
ice cream parlor idea in Bloomington in 1930,
expanding to Columbus, North Vernon and then
Madison in 1933. And Winfred Hinkle added small
burgers for 5 cents that people could afford during
The Depression. Madison is the lone location that
remains today. Thankfully.
20 EXTOL : DECEMBER 2018/JANUARY 2019
Shipley’s, meanwhile, is a local pub serving your
favorite libations and good pub grub in a friendly
atmosphere. It was derived and has survived as a
tavern and meeting place for locals and visitors
alike since 1867. It is perhaps the original “Cheers”
of Madison.
While, the food and its role has evolved, what
hasn’t changed in 151 years is the “come in, everyone
is welcome here” atmosphere of this local watering
hole.
Think about this: For 85 years, Madison stalwarts
Hinkle’s and Shipley’s have been making their
burgers and doing what they do from a mere 132
steps apart. Kudos to all involved.
But, back to searching for the best cheeseburger
in Madison.
To compare cheeseburgers as the focus simply
wouldn’t tell the whole story. To begin with, their
cheeseburgers are too different. And – this was
delightful albeit surprising – after talking with
employees from both locales, each emphasized
they have never viewed the other as a competitor.
Rather, they see themselves as unique with totally
different businesses and histories but with a shared
love of doing business in downtown Madison, and
each one respects the other’s longevity and place
in the community.
So much for the contest idea. But left up to my
own culinary devices, the only way to settle this
was to go and find out for myself. To this end, on a
recent Friday night, I did my culinary and historical
research on both.
AND HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW:
Hinkle’s: Hinkle’s has two entrances. The door
on the left is for tabled seating (added in the mid-
70s). The door on the right steps into the original
counter seating from 1933 with 11 rotating stools.
Hinkle’s Sandwich Shop
204 W. Main St., Madison
812.265.3919
6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday and Tuesday
6 a.m. to 11 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday
24 hours Friday and Saturday
hinkleburger.com