TRIP REPORT
FRIDAY – 6 th October Another lovely day in paradise on the banks of the Cooper ….
After packing up we went and saw where Burke had died – I should add that where both Burke and Wills had died was originally their grave sites but the bodies were recovered , returned to Melbourne and are buried in the Melbourne General Cemetery in Carlton .
A last minute stop at the Trading post before we headed off to Cordillo Downs . Interesting to see the flood levels for the Cooper on the edge of town , the indicator shows 14 metres although at the crossing there were currently only puddles .
The road north was now open .
Up near Candradeck Dam we came across some stock yards with thousands of corellas . On the rails . On the ground . Everywhere ! They were flying in a continuous flock a just couple of metres above the gibber plains to the yards and the bore , a hundred metres to the rear . And there they rested . This flock went for kilometres . Part of the flock would rest on the ground while others drank from puddles on the road , then they ’ d move on and more would fly in to take their place . Kilometre after kilometre . Amazing and noisy .
Again we were fortunate to find a couple of trees to provide some shade for lunch .
At nearly 15:00 we reached the Cordillo Downs woolshed . This would have to be a trip highlight . The woolshed , which is heritage listed , is constructed of stone and has a curved tin roof . Building commenced in 1883 . It was built this way due to the abundance of stone on the gibber plains and lack of timber in the area . The curved roof meant that it did not need posts for support . It was also once regarded as the largest woolshed in the world with walls 3 feet thick and had stands for 120 shearers . Shearers chalked up an impressive 82,000 sheep shearing record in a season , all with hand shears ! We were all gob-smacked by this impressive building and also delighted that the current owners permit visitors to view this simply wonderful structure of bygone days .
Today Cordillo Downs incorporates the old Cadelga and Haddon Downs runs and cattle replaced sheep in 1942 ( Poll Hereford ). Today the property is over 8,000 sq km and back before 1900 Cordillo Downs was regarded as Australia ’ s largest sheep station and big enough to have its own teacher , post office , saddler , blacksmith , police station and even had polling boxes during elections ; the station ’ s population was greater than Innamincka !
Back on the track we continued northward until we reached the Cadelga station ruins , just 11km short of the Qld border . We set up camp beside the dry riverbed . The station house would have been quite impressive in its day and you have to marvel at the workmanship of years ago . It all certainly brings home how harsh life was and can be out here .
We swatted the flies in between mouthfuls during fivesees . With the sun going down they disappeared and we enjoyed the evening around the fire . Tonight the moon is very near and the night sky is stunning and carpeted with stars .
SATURDAY – 7th October After packing up we checked out the nearby bore before heading to Queensland . Interesting how the roads change on the other side of the border . On crossing , you are welcomed to the Diamantina Shire – “ population 283 (+/ - 7,000 ), Shire area 94.66 sq km ”. Plus or minus 7,000 , can only be the Birdsville races !
12 © Vol 35 No . 6 - Oct / Nov 2017